Bridges Across Manhattan

This past summer, though, I felt like I was in need of some new creative energy. I took several online workshops and began exploring ideas. Leave it to National Geographic to be my driving force. I signed up for a workshop with Nevada Weir, a travel photographer renowned for documenting remote corners of the world. I think of myself as a travel photographer. So, it sounded right up my alley (even though my alleys are not nearly as remote as Nevada’s)! Nevertheless, I knew I could learn from her. I realized that a portion of her workshop would focus on people. That's OK, I thought. I occasionally include people in my travel photographs. After listening to Nevada discuss her work (and seeing her photographs), I realized that people are extremely important to - and a large part of - how she captures culture in her travel photography. I would love to do better at documenting culture. Maybe I needed to re-consider photographing people.

Well, Nevada has a knack for getting up close and personal with people – in their homes, in their personal spaces, and in remote locations. I’m sure her National Geographic credentials help, but she had to earn those. She also pointed out that COVID19 has impacted her adventures of late. How could I practice during the pandemic? I began thinking about my encounters with people since these strange times began. I live in a city condo and walk my dog outside several times a day. I see people averting their eyes from each other much more often and simply avoiding any type of social connection. With all of the division over wearing masks, it occurred to me… does social distancing necessarily have to mean social disconnecting? I believe in wearing masks and keeping a responsible distance, but I think it’s important to remember that behind those masks, we are all still human. I believe it is possible to still “see” each other and connect, even while wearing masks and keeping a physical distance. After all, it was Shakespeare who once said, “the eyes are the windows to your soul”.  Thus, I had both my inspiration and the idea for my new project: 
 

Anne (That's me!)

“Humans Behind the Face Mask”.

In thinking about how to proceed, it occurred to me that it would be similar to a previous project that I worked on a few years ago, where I set a goal to photograph 100 strangers when out and about. Click on the "100 Strangers" link to learn more about the project. Know that I initially began the project as a way to improve my photography skills. I quickly realized that the most difficult part of the project was how to approach a stranger and to help that person be comfortable with a few impromptu photographs. I never completed the project. A broken foot sidetracked it after a little over 50 people. It occurred to me that this would be a chance to reach that original goal of 100 strangers, but with a new purpose in mind.

"100 Strangers" Project

"100 Strangers"

"100 Strangers"

I went out with my camera several times this past weekend, and realized it will take awhile to get back into the swing of things. I plan to post one human at a time. It might be daily. It might be weekly. It’s a work in progress, after all. We'll see. I plan to photograph at least 50 strangers, but I will likely showcase many more humans behind those face masks, as I would love to include friends and acquaintances who are willing to participate. You’ll just have to guess which photos are of strangers and which are of friends. I’m not revealing any names, but here's my first participant!

First "Human Behind the Face Mask"

Do you see her smile?

Follow me on Facebook and/or Instagram to see how the project develops. I’ll be posting photos on my web site as well. Finally, I’d encourage you to wear those masks and keep that social distance…  but don’t disconnect!

#HumansBehindtheFaceMask #HBFM

In 2018, my husband and I took a Danube River cruise. Prior to boarding the ship, we spent a few days in Prague. I quickly fell in love with the city. What impressed me most? I never tired of gazing at the architectural details of just about every building we passed - and we walked endlessly - until we could walk no more. I trust that the architectural splendor remains, but I wonder... how is the country doing? What is life like for its people during a pandemic?

To begin, the first three COVID-19 cases were confirmed on March 1, 2020. Then, on March 12, the government declared a state of emergency - the first state of emergency declared in this country's modern history. The order was subsequently extended until April 30, and then again until May 17. A vast number of measures (and revisions to those measures) were announced throughout this timeframe.  

Most notably, a nationwide curfew was instituted on March 16. On that same day, the country closed its borders to the entry of foreigners. Then, on March 19, the Czech Republic became the first European country to mandate face masks. On March 30, a voluntary contact tracing, called “smart quarantine” was adopted, allowing for the identification and quarantining of exposed contacts. Gatherings were initially limited to two people, then subsequently to ten. Testing was widely available from April 13 onward. Anyone with a fever, dry cough, or shortness of breath was eligible for free testing. The capacity immediately surpassed demand.

Measures included exemptions for the usual grocery shopping and travel to and from work, but also allowed for visiting relatives and unrestricted movement in parks & countryside. General retail shops could conduct distance sales with delivery and takeaway windows. Manufacturing plants that shut down did so voluntarily.

April gradually saw some restrictions relaxed. By the end of the month, the country re-opened its borders for outbound (justifiable) business travel, with quarantine and/or negative testing requirements on return. As we're hearing of so many countries, many citizens have been confused by the rules. Many put public pressure on the government to ease the rules. Despite the confusion, the country has seen a low number of COVID-19 cases and deaths compared to other countries. Whether it was because of public pressure or successful data (or both), the Czech Republic became the first European country to relax the rules.

The country's phased re-opening of the economy has prioritized outdoor pursuits, rather than indoor pursuits. Large festivals and events are still not allowed, but as of May 25, most tourist and business facilities have been allowed to re-open with social distancing measures in place. Restaurants, pubs, sporting events, river cruises, cinemas, and cultural venues are among the facilities re-opening.

Many have attributed the country’s success to the requirement that people must wear face masks - even outdoors. It is something that most Czechs have both agreed with and complied with. In fact, a recent National Pandemic Alarm survey found that around 75 per cent of Czechs supported the measure, making it the most praised government policy.

Many are comparing the Czech Republic's cases and death rates to the vastly higher rates of Sweden, a similarly populous country with no lockdown. As of May 27, the Czech Republic (a/k/a Czechia) had a total of 317 deaths compared to Sweden’s 4,220. (See data below, taken from the Worldometer COVID-19 statistics).

COVID-19, as of May 27, 2020Source: Worldometer

Other European governments, including the British government, are reported to be observing the Czech model of how to get their countries back-to-business. Will the model prove successful in the long run? Will a second wave hit, requiring measures to be reinstated? Will countries learn best practices from each other? Only time will tell.

Prague, the Vtlava River and the Charles Bridge

Sources:

Wikipedia; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic_in_the_Czech_Republic

EuroNews; https://www.euronews.com/2020/05/08/coronavirus-czechs-so-far-avoid-worst-of-covid-19-despite-lenient-lockdown

Prague Experience; https://www.pragueexperience.com/information/coronavirus.asp

The Guardian; https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/apr/24/czech-republic-opens-borders-citizens-coronavirus-infections-decline

Politico; https://www.politico.eu/article/czech-republic-eases-lockdown-restrictions/

Expats_CZ; https://news.expats.cz/coronavirus-in-the-czech-republic/may-27-czech-coronavirus-updates-no-deaths-48-new-cases-border-re-openings/

Government of the Czech Republic; https://www.vlada.cz/en/media-centrum/aktualne/measures-adopted-by-the-czech-government-against-coronavirus-180545/

Worldometer; https://www.worldometers.info/coronavirus/country/czech-republic/

Parque del AmorLima, located in west-central Peru, is the country's capital city. Travelers to Peru typically fly into this sea-level coastal city before traveling on to Peru's more famous destinations at higher altitudes. Traveling from Cusco to the Sacred ValleyCusco elevation - 11,152 ft; Sacred Valley elevation - 6,730-9,800 ft
 

The capitol city, Lima, is located at sea level, while the town with the highest elevation, La Rinconada, is in the eastern Andes at 16,732 feet. Rural towns and communities are located in the valleys and on the mountains throughout the country. Some communities literally have no roads leading to them and can only be reached by foot, train, or plane. Aguas Calientes, for example, the town that sits at the base of Machu Picchu, can only be reached by foot or by train. It can take days to travel between some outlying communities.

Vistadome TrainThe Vistadome train is the only means of transportation to and from the town of Aguas Calientes, unless one chooses to hike the Inca Trail.

Arriving at Aquas CalientesAguas Calientes is a city in the Urubamba River Valley. It serves as a stopping point for travelers going to and and from the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu.

Machu Picchu

Prior to the pandemic, it was common for migrants from outlying communities to travel to Lima for jobs. Then, on March 6, 2020, a 25-year-old Peruvian returned to Lima with the coronavirus after traveling throughout Europe, and the first confirmed COVID-19 case was announced. Nine days later, on March 15, a countrywide lockdown was announced, banning all travel between provinces, and into and out of the country. Tourists had 24 hours to leave the country. As a tourist, imagine trying to schedule last-minute transportation to the country's international airport (in Lima) from an outlying location, then re-booking air travel out of the county, with the goal of being gone within the 24-hour timeframe. In planning last year's vacation to Peru, I recall the realization that we would need to plan a day for travel between almost each destination that we wished to visit. Remember, many of those destinations are located in the mountains and valleys of the country. As vacationers, would we have heard the news immediately? Trying to exit the country within 24 hours would certainly have been a challenge. As one might expect, quite a few tourists found themselves stranded. Within another 24 hours, all (residents and visitors) were required to fill out online forms to obtain permission to leave their homes or hotels. A military-enforced curfew went into effect. Peruvians quickly began losing jobs. Hunger became an issue. Citizens caught ignoring the curfew were arrested. Migrants began applying to return to outlying communities where they could at least farm for food. Some waited for available transportation. Others just began walking. Limited testing was conducted, but the virus spread to outlying communities.

Traveling Around the Sacred ValleyCommunity located in the Urubamba Valley of Peru.

The actual person-to-person spread of the virus in Peru has largely been blamed on street markets. Although security guards enforce required face masks and limited entry in supermarkets, many Peruvians buy their food in informal street markets that are severely overcrowded. To complicate matters, the poor frequently live in cramped, unsanitary dwellings that lack running water. Cultural practices result in less personal space; Peruvians tend to stand several inches closer to each other than citizens of the U.S. The impact on isolated communities has been severe. Consider Iquitos, for example. The largest city in the Amazon rain forest has a population of approximately ½ million and is unreachable by road. The city relies on air transport for supplies. The pandemic reached Iquitos at the tail end of a dengue fever outbreak AND a bout of leptospirosis. The city’s hospitals ended up with five times the number of patients as beds. Most deaths were the result of a lack of oxygen or medical supplies.

As of May 20, Peru is second only to Brazil (with seven times the population as Peru) in COVID-19 deaths in Latin American countries. Updated statistics may be found in the link at the end of this post. Although some restrictions are being relaxed, Peru recently extended their lockdown to June 30. My heart is with the wonderful people of this extraordinarily beautiful country.

Fortress of Sacsayhuaman... high atop the city of Cusco, Peru. Alpaca and a rural community

Agricultural Terraces Above Pisac, in the Sacred Valley

For a current update on COVID-19 data around the world, click on the Worldometer.

Sources:

Wikipedia; COVID-19 pandemic in Peru

The Washington Post: Peru took early, aggressive measures against the coronavirus. It’s still suffering one of Latin America’s largest outbreaks

The Guardian: ‘We are living in a catastrophe’: Peru's jungle capital choking for breath as Covid-19 hits

The Nation: Covid-19 Is Forcing an Exodus From Peru’s Cities

Conde Nast Traveler: The World's Highest City Is in Peru

U.S. News and World Report: Peru Extends Protracted National Lockdown Until End of June
 

A View from Wailea on the island of Maui

FB's travel photo challenge was fun to take part in, but it also had me wondering what life is like during the pandemic at some of my favorite travel destinations. I decided to do a little research and find out. Having been married on Maui and recently celebrating our 30th anniversary there, I decided to begin with Hawaii. So, for my fellow “wanderlusters”…

Hawaii instituted a mandatory 14-day "quarantine in place" for travelers on March 26, with stay-at-home orders for visitors and residents until May 30. Non-essential businesses are closed and lounging on beaches is forbidden. Unfortunately, many travelers are ignoring regulations and angering residents. As a state, Hawaii can’t shut down federal air travel, but residents have taken it on themselves to tell visitors they are not welcome by protesting at airports and along highways. “Hawaii is Closed” signs are a common site.

Yes, that means travelers are still trying to enter the state. Hawaii’s economy is heavily dependent on tourism and currently has the highest unemployment rate in the U.S. at 37%. Bargain hunting travelers may be thinking the state would find a way to welcome them, but it’s largely about resources. Hawaii has limited intensive care unit beds and ventilators, and all are on the island of Oahu. If you’ve been to the islands, imagine trying to travel from a remote location, like Hana (on Maui), then making your way to another island, while being in urgent need of a ventilator. As for every day goods and supplies, the islands rely on air transportation and weekly ship deliveries. They don’t have huge interstate highway systems and a vast number of large trucks to deliver goods, as the rest of the nation does. Surprisingly, Hawaii imports 90% of its food. Shortages of items like toilet paper and hand sanitizer began a full week before the shortages began on the mainland. Residents just don’t have enough items for their homes, much less for vacation rentals.

Read Fodor’s entire article about Hawaii and the coronavirus at: https://bit.ly/3fjYRz9

Waianapanapa State Park, near Hana on the island of Maui

Wailea The coastline along Wailea in South Maui, Hawaii.

Palm Trees at Sunset

Flying Over Maui 2Window seat view of the island of Maui

Desert ExhibitLinnean House, MOBOT It's cold outside! That doesn’t mean you have to stop taking pictures. Whether amateur or pro, many photographers love to bring out the camera in cold weather. Then again, maybe you’re tired of the cold weather. Perhaps you'd rather visit a local greenhouse or butterfly house. Either way, exposing your DSLR camera to sudden changes in temperature can cause your lens to fog up.

A lens cloth sounds like an easy solution, but wiping down the outside of the lens won't necessarily solve the problem. Extreme temperature changes can cause moisture to form inside the lens. While it is tempting to take the lens off and wipe down the inside of your camera, DON’T DO IT! If you try wiping down your camera’s sensor, you could cause serious damage to both the sensor and your camera. You’ll end up with much bigger problems.

What is the Sketchbook Project? It is a creative platform that encourages people from around the globe to create and to share their work together through the Brooklyn Art Library. Participants fund the project and, in turn, are sent a blank 5x7" sketchbook. Anyone can participate; professionals or amateurs. Participants simply choose a theme, then fill their sketchbooks with writings, drawings, paintings, photographs, or any media that fits within the guidelines of the paper sketchbook. Upon completion, sketchbooks are returned to the Brooklyn Art Library where they are catalogued and shelved for visitors to view. The library also schedules tour dates where collections of sketchbooks are sent out in a bookmobile to reach a wider audience. The 2019 Bookmobile is scheduled to visit Brooklyn, Paris, London, Los Angeles and Venice Beach. Of course, there are so many more people in the world to reach! So, participants also have the option to digitize their sketchbooks for online viewing worldwide. 

This sounded like just the motivation I was looking for! No, I'm not a sketch artist. I have no training in the field, but I love any creative challenge. I decided to give it a try. My plan was to merge my photography with sketches. I began by choosing and printing some favorite photos. I thought about why they were my favorites and how they fit together. I finally had a theme. I organized and pasted them into the sketchbook, then used pencils, pastels and fine-point markers to get creative. My sketchbook took about three months to complete, but I managed to return it to the Brooklyn Art Library in time to be included in Volume 14 of the Sketchbook Project. As much fun as it was to create, it took quite a bit of time. I decided to pay the extra to have the book digitized.

IMG_2495
 

Given that the overall mission of this project is to create and share with a global community, I thought I'd share it here as well. I don't know how artistic my sketchbook truly is, but perhaps it will inspire someone else looking to get creative!

In case you missed the link above, here is the link to my full sketchbook: Explore. Observe. Photograph. Create.

When most people think of Peru, they think of Machu Picchu. But how much do you know about the country’s other sights? To get a true sense of all that Peru has to offer, be prepared to travel through cities, over mountains, into valleys and maybe even across the world’s highest navigable lake! I recently posted about Machu Picchu. It is deserving of its own write-up! (Click to learn about the UNESCO World Heritage site). Or, read on to learn about some of the other travel destinations in Peru.

The Andes MountainsThe clouds create variety in the scene on a daily basis.
 

Our trip began in Lima, Peru’s capital and largest city. It is also the second largest city in South America, behind São Paulo, Brazil. Our plane arrived late in the evening, so we decided to spend our first full day in Lima, taking a city tour and exploring a bit on our own. We especially enjoyed the incredible architecture of the city’s Historic Center and the beautiful sunset at the Parque del Amor (Love Park) along the Peruvian coastline. The district of Miraflores is home to excellent hotels and restaurants. We found the El Pardo Doubletree to have outstanding accommodations and service. It was easy finding our first Peruvian meal. The hotel recommended the restaurant, Panchita, right around the corner. We quickly became fans of Lomo Saltado and Pisco Sours!  

Lima Skyline

Lima ArchitecturePlaza de Armas

Lima ArchitecturePlaza de Armas

Convent of Santo Domingo

Sunset from Parque del Amor

Sunset at Parque del Amor

After Lima, we spent two nights in the Sacred Valley. Our stay at the Casa Andina in Urubamba proved the perfect base for the area’s attractions.

Casa Andina Hotel groundsUrubamba

Our first destination was Maras and the Marasal Salt Pools, set along a mountain hillside. The Incans originally created the pools in the 1400s, when they discovered rich salt deposits in the mountain and a natural stream flowing down its side. They created shallow pools at the base of the mountain to capture the salt rich water. After filling, the pools are damned to allow the water to evaporate. Crystals are then harvested, bagged and taken to market. Today, a collaborative of local families from the Maras community harvest the salt. Families wishing to participate take charge of individual pools, but they must consult with the collaborative to ensure the process maintains market standards. The overall process remains largely unchanged since the early days.

Marasal Salt Pools/Pans The Salt Pools/Pans
Mountain Spring WaterMaras is a hillside town in the Sacred Valley of Peru and home to the Marasal salt mines dating back to Incan times.

Pool of Salt Water
Marasal SaltMaras is a hillside town in the Sacred Valley of Peru and home to the Marasal salt mines dating back to Incan times. Close Up on the Marasal PansMaras is a hillside town in the Sacred Valley of Peru and home to the Marasal salt mines dating back to Incan times. Bagging Marasal's SaltMaras is a hillside town in the Sacred Valley of Peru and home to the Marasal salt mines dating back to Incan times.

Our next destination, Moray, was our first up-close encounter with the country’s fascinating agricultural terraces. Moray’s circular terraces, filled with fertile earth and a complex irrigation system, form sunken amphitheatres. It is thought that the Incas used the site for research to experiment with crops at various altitudes.

Moray Agricultural TerracesMoray is a town to the west of Maras in the Sacred Valley of southeastern Peru. It is known for its circular and well-preserved agricultural terraces filled with fertile earth, a complex irrigation system and sunken amphitheaters. The site is thought to have been used by the Incas for research to experiment with crops at various altitudes. Moray Agricultural TerracesMoray is a town to the west of Maras in the Sacred Valley of southeastern Peru. It is known for its circular and well-preserved agricultural terraces filled with fertile earth, a complex irrigation system and sunken amphitheaters. The site is thought to have been used by the Incas for research to experiment with crops at various altitudes. Terrace StairsDiagonally placed stones along the walls serve as stairs to the various terraces. Walking Amidst the TerracesMoray
 

Let's take a break from the destinations to talk about lunch. It was that time, after all! Our tour guide asked us if we were interested in a local experience. Keep in mind, we were driving through small towns of the Sacred Valley at this point.

Traveling Through the Small Towns...of the Sacred Valley Traveling Through the Small Towns...of the Sacred Valley
Traveling Through the Small Towns...of the Sacred Valley
Traveling Through the Small Towns...of the Sacred Valley

Traveling Through the Small Towns...of the Sacred Valley
Traveling Through the Small Towns...of the Sacred Valley
 

We weren't seeing a lot of tourists. If we truly wanted authentic, this was the time. Her suggestion was to stop for cuy (pronounced “kwee”) - guinea pig! The small mammal has been a part of Peru’s Andean diet for 5,000 years. My first thought was of the pet guinea pig we kept in the classroom during those days that I taught preschool. In Peru, however, the animal is a delicacy, served on special occasions and to special guests. Were we special guests? I suppose it would be rude to say “no” – and my adult sons were on board to try it!

As we entered the small roadside restaurant, our guide pointed out the guineas roasting on skewers in an adobe oven. She spoke briefly with the owner, then told us that she requested our cuy be cut into pieces. I wondered a bit why she felt the need to point that out. Then, I noticed that other restaurant guests (locals) were being served plates with whole roasted guineas on top. At that point, I truly appreciated our tour guide! In fact, later in our trip, I met a Floridian traveler who told me about her cuy experience at a more touristy restaurant. The guinea there was served whole and dressed in costume with a hat atop! Yikes! I was happy to have had the local experience! How was it? The meat was seasoned well and flavorful, but there was not much meat on the bones. It was served with an abundance of potatoes and vegetables and all were quite tasty. Yes, I was initially the most apprehensive of our group, but I left pleased to have tried the experience.

We were ready for our next destination, the Incan ruins above Pisac. It is one of the Sacred Valley’s most important sites for Incan ruins, as they are part of a larger Incan platform and urban planning system, very advanced for its time. We learned about Incan architecture, agricultural terraces, an Incan hydraulic system, a military fortress, residential structures and religious customs.

Path to the RuinsThe Sacred Valley, or Urubamba Valley, of Peru is located in the highlands of the Andean mountains. It is home to the Spanish colonial villages of Pisac and Ollantaytambo. Travelers looking for shopping opportunities will be happy with Pisac's large handicraft market. At the top of Pisac's hillside, travelers will find one of the Sacred Valley’s most important sites for Incan ruins. This hillside citadel is an example of an Incan platform and urban planning system, very advanced for its time. It includes Incan architecture, agricultural terraces, an Incan hydraulic system, a military fortress, as well as residential and religious structures. Archaeological Ruins above Pisac
Agricultural Terraces Above PisacThe Sacred Valley, or Urubamba Valley, of Peru is located in the highlands of the Andean mountains. It is home to the Spanish colonial villages of Pisac and Ollantaytambo. Travelers looking for shopping opportunities will be happy with Pisac's large handicraft market. At the top of Pisac's hillside, travelers will find one of the Sacred Valley’s most important sites for Incan ruins. This hillside citadel is an example of an Incan platform and urban planning system, very advanced for its time. It includes Incan architecture, agricultural terraces, an Incan hydraulic system, a military fortress, as well as residential and religious structures. Agricultural Terraces Above PisacThe Sacred Valley, or Urubamba Valley, of Peru is located in the highlands of the Andean mountains. It is home to the Spanish colonial villages of Pisac and Ollantaytambo. Travelers looking for shopping opportunities will be happy with Pisac's large handicraft market. At the top of Pisac's hillside, travelers will find one of the Sacred Valley’s most important sites for Incan ruins. This hillside citadel is an example of an Incan platform and urban planning system, very advanced for its time. It includes Incan architecture, agricultural terraces, an Incan hydraulic system, a military fortress, as well as residential and religious structures.
 

Our guide pointed out a school in the town of Pisac, below the complex, as well as modern day homes above the complex and told us a bit about rural life in these communities. When residents from above need to go into town, many walk up and down the mountainside. We saw no bikes. It is simply too hilly. We did see a young girl walking home from school on a path alongside the complex. Our tour guide asked her how long it takes to walk home. She told us an hour and a half!

Pisac From AboveiPhone photo Homes At the Top... above Pisac's archaeological ruins site

We also visited Pisac and its Indian Market. The town is one of the best places to find products made by local craftspeople. Alpaca wool, silversmithing and ceramics are abundant. Our guide gave us some free time, but suggested a stop at the Geraldine Factory if we were interested in learning some of the processes behind the crafts. We took her up on the suggestion and learned how to spot true “baby alpaca” wool and high quality silver while shopping among the country’s craftspeople. Baby alpaca wool, by the way, comes from the alpaca’s first shearing and is some of the softest wool you will find!

Pisac Indian MarketThe Sacred Valley, or Urubamba Valley, of Peru is located in the highlands of the Andean mountains.

If you’ve been following my Peruvian travels, you know that we spent the next two days in Machu Picchu. Again, I felt the destination to be worthy of its own posts. If you’d like more information, click to learn about Machu Picchu itself, or about the unique planning required for such a trip. Here, I’ll simply add that we stayed one night at The Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel in Aguas Calientes. It was probably our favorite hotel of the trip and worth researching when planning an overnight stay in the town.

Machu PicchuMachu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is thought to be one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries in recent history, largely because of the amount of knowledge it has revealed about Inca civilization. This "Lost City of the Incas" is located on the eastern slopes of the Andes mountains, near the low-lying Amazon basin. Aguas Calientes... at the base of Machu Picchu

Cusco was the perfect destination after a visit to Machu Picchu. A city with a population of just under 500,000, it is set at 11,000 feet above sea level, high in the Peruvian Andes. We stayed at the Hotel Novotel Cusco, near the city’s historic center. Walking through streets filled with historic architecture, we quickly realized that many of the buildings had foundations made of the same Incan architecture that we saw in Machu Picchu – architecture that has withstood centuries of time - and major earthquakes! Our hotel, built in the 16^th century, was one such building. Architecturally, this was probably the most interesting of our hotel accommodations. Although the hotel wasn’t quite as luxurious as the newer hotels where we stayed, it was updated and quite comfortable.

CuscoCusco Walking Through CuscoIncan architecture serves as the foundation for many buildings around the city's historic district.
Koricancha TempleRuins from this ancient Inca palace and temple for the Sun God were subsequently used as the foundation for a dominican church. Today, the Santo Domingo Church is an impressive example of both Incan and Spanish architecture. Koricancha TempleAn Incan foundation is spotted just past the Archways. Spanish architecture was built above the foundation.
Koricancha TempleDoorway

Koricancha TempleSpanish archways of the Santo Domingo Church, built above the ruins/foundation of an ancient Inca palace and temple for the Sun God.

A View of Cuscofrom the Koricancha Temple Fortress of Sacsayhuaman...watching over Cusco Fortress of Sacsayhuaman... high atop the city of Cusco, Peru.

Fortress of Sacsayhuaman... high atop the city of Cusco, Peru Alpacasat the fortress

Puca Pucara...the resting place of the Inca; high above the city of Cusco, Peru

As in Lima, we took a city tour and explored on our own, as much as time allowed. We saw some incredible sights, but we wished we had allocated more time to Cusco! One full day was simply not enough! We really enjoyed learning about the architecture of Machu Picchu and were thrilled to find the Machu Picchu Museum right around the corner from our hotel. An evening walk around the Plaza de Armas main square was a highlight.

Plaza de ArmasCusco's Main Square Across from the Plaza de ArmasCusco's Main Square
Across from Plaza de ArmasCusco's Main Square Plaza de ArmasCusco's Main Square

Restaurants were also plentiful. We stumbled across one of our favorite restaurants, called A Mi Manera, on a 2^nd floor balcony of sorts, overlooking a small town square. The restaurant had wonderful Peruvian food, service and ambiance!

DinnertimeCusco is located in the southeastern area of Peru, high in the Andes mountain range and near Peru's Sacred Valley. Formerly a capital city, it is now known for Incan archaeological ruins and Spanish colonial architecture.

The final two days of our journey were spent near the city of Puno, in southeastern Peru at 12,500 feet above sea level and on the shore of the world’s highest navigable lake, Lake Titicaca.

View of PunoLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors. PunoCity at the shore of Lake Titicaca, in Peru
 

We began by checking into our hotel, the Casa Andina Puno, at the water’s edge. We were used to hotel greeters pointing out hotel amenities on check-in. This was the first time, however, that a greeter pointed out the supplemental oxygen available on request! Once again, we felt that higher altitude!

Entrance to the Marina...from the Casa Andina Puno
 

On our first full day, we met our guide and driver at the hotel marina. Today, we would be traveling by boat! Our destinations were Amantani and the Uros Islands, where inhabitants still cling to a way of life, much like that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors.

Sailing Through the Reedsof Lake Titicaca (from Puno)

The best known of the islands and our favorite destination of the trip (behind only Machu Picchu) were the Uros Islands, also known as the Floating Islands. The islands are man-made, built from the reed that grows at the bottom of the lake. And, yes, the islands actually do float - anchors keep them from floating away! Homes, furnishings and boats are all made of reed. Island surfaces are a bit spongy to walk on and need constant maintenance, given that the lower layers of reed are in water and decay regularly. Islanders spend much of their time replacing decaying reed. It is not an easy life. There is also no running water and temperatures frequently dip to freezing at night.

Welcome to the Uros IslandsLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors.
Visiting the Uros IslandsLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors. Uros Islands...floating reed islands on Lake Titicaca
Reed Boat
Uros Islands...floating reed islands on Lake Titicaca
Close Up on the ReedsLake Titicaca

There are close to 50 floating islands, most of which remain untouched by visitors. There is a growing trend to welcome tourists, however. Islanders are known to be friendly, hospitable, and quite colorful in attire! Our small family was thrilled to be welcomed onto an island of only five families and 25 inhabitants who lived up to that friendly reputation! Speaking in Aymara, the leader of the island used tools and small models of reed structures to demonstrate how the islands are built. Our tour guide translated, but the leader’s theatrical personality had us laughing and enjoying the presentation, even without the translation! His wife invited us into their small one-room home, showing us their reed furnishings and the handicrafts that fill her day. She seemed most proud to show us the electricity that they enjoy, thanks to solar panels! Our hosts ended the visit by offering us a ride on one of their reed boats. The Uro islanders are truly a hard-working, but happy and remarkable people!

Reed "Couches"Lake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors.

How to Build a Reed IslandReed roots filled with dirt are cut and used for the bottom layer of the islands. The squares of dirt float and have a sponge-like feel.

Inside a Reed HouseLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors. Inside a Reed HouseLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors. The KitchenLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors.

Colorful HandiworkLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors.

Colorful HandiworkLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors.

Photographing the Tourists?Lake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors.

Communications TowerThe other islands are just a "call" away. Solar Panels...provide electricity on the islands.
 

Lake Titicaca is also home to natural islands (made of earth, as opposed to reeds). We visited one such island, Amantani - another island that sees few tourists, but much larger than the small reed island that we had just visited. Amantani is known for terraced fields, farming, and a quiet and remote lifestyle. Islanders speak Quecha and dress less colorfully – often in black or darker colors. We found them just as friendly and welcoming as the Aymara, however. We learned about life on the island and were treated to a home-cooked meal. We only visited the island for a couple of hours, but our hosts showed us guest rooms that they offer to tourists and invited us to return and spread the word. The three rooms were unoccupied at the time, but would certainly provide a relaxing respite for those looking to “get away from it all”.

Amantani IslandLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors. Amantani IslandLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors.
Amantani IslandLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors. Amantani Island... on Lake Titicaca
Amantani IslandLake Titicaca Sailing on Lake Titicaca

It was time to return to the hotel for the evening. We still had one last day in Peru, as our flight home did not leave until the following evening. We thought we might spend the day in Puno, but our guide offered another suggestion. It was perfect!

We began with a drive to Sillustani, about 20 miles outside of Puno and at the highest elevation of our trip, at 13,500 feet above sea level. The site offers incredible views above Lake Umayo. It is also the site of circular towers, or chullpas, built by the Colla civilization, an Aymara-speaking people conquered by the Incas about a century before the Spanish arrived. The towers served as burial chambers for entire families of nobility, along with their possessions, to take with them into the next world. It was one last example of the sophisticated architecture of an ancient civilization that has puzzled archaeologists and historians for quite some time.

Lake UmayoSillustani is a pre-Incan cemetery used for Colla nobility on the shores of Lake Umayo near Puno in Peru. Chullpas, Burial Towersof Sillustani Chullpaof Sillustani Chulllpasof Sillustani

Chullpaof Sillustani

Cattle Rancherat Sillustani

Our guide arranged one last stop - a visit with a family in a small community outside of Sillustani. They family’s alpacas greeted us on arrival.

An Alpaca Welcomenear Sillustani

The husband and wife were happy to show us weaving and farming techniques. The wife also showed us her outdoor kitchen with adobe oven. She had just finished making fresh cheese and offered us samples. It was delicious! Do you remember the cuy that we sampled in the Sacred Valley? As is common in the smaller communities of Peru, the couple also had an adobe-style pen of guinea pigs in the yard. She offered to let us feed vegetables to the animals that would one day be served as entrées on a special occasion.

Rural LifeTwo cows above a doorway are good luck. Another Warm Welcomenear Sillustani

Weavingnear Sillustani

Weavingnear Sillustani

Preparing to Cooknear Sillustani

Farmingnear Sillustani

Guinea Pig Pen... future dinner entrees!

And she still has time to style her hair!
 

It was a memorable last day in Peru. Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time or budget for more. Other sites that tourists might wish to research are the Incan Trail, the “White City” of Arequipa, Colca Canyon, the Nazca Lines or Iquitos and the Amazon jungle. Clearly, Peru has an abundance of unique destinations to offer tourists. Click on the link for more images of any of the described destinations above.

The Andes MountainsLake Titicaca is one of South America's largest lakes and the world's highest navigable lake. Bordering both Peru and Bolivia, travelers to the lake discover both natural islands, made of earth, and man-made islands, made of reeds that grow at the bottom of the lake. Residents of the floating Uros Islands, or "Reed Islands", harvest the reeds from the lake and use them to build and maintain the islands themselves, as well as their homes, boats, furniture, and most everything they need to live on the islands. Residents of both types of islands maintain a way life resembling that of their Inca and pre-Inca ancestors.

View from the Sun Gate TrailMachu Picchu

First, Machu Picchu is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the “New Seven Modern Wonders of the World”.  If you're not familiar with the site, read my last post for a brief overview (click). As a result, tourism is growing. To protect the site, an increasing number of restrictions are being placed on tourists. I realized I’d have to plan early. Second, the high altitude can cause problems for visitors, regardless of age or physical ability. A well-planned itinerary can minimize altitude sickness. I decided to contact a travel agent who specializes in South American travel to help me plan this vacation.

International visitors typically fly into the country through the coastal city of Lima. To reach Machu Picchu, visitors then have one of two options. They can hike to the ruins or take a train from the Sacred Valley. 

The most common hiking itineraries take 2-6 days along the Incan Trail, although longer options can be arranged. Altitudes can reach up to 16,000 feet with the longer itineraries. A permit and one or more licensed porters are required, as the government places restrictions on the number of hikers allowed on the trail each day. Advanced planning is advisable. It occurred to me that hiking might allow for a more gradual adjustment to the altitude. Although I enjoy a good day hike, I admit I’m not a camper. My time in Peru was also limited. I didn’t want to spend so much time hiking, when I could be visiting other amazing Peruvian sites. So, we chose the train option.
 

What exactly does that entail? Again, we began at sea level in Lima (25 feet in altitude). Machu Picchu is 8,000 feet above sea level, a height at which altitude sickness becomes a risk. Because there are no roads leading to the site, visitors typically fly from Lima to the city of Cusco at 11,000 feet in altitude, then immediately descend to the Sacred Valley at 9,000 feet, to spend some time acclimating. Yes, you read that correctly. Machu Picchu is at a lower altitude than either of these places, but Machu Picchu involves a significant amount of climbing and hiking over a fair amount of uneven and rocky terrain. The Sacred Valley, at least, allows for some relaxation and less strenuous activity, and allows visitors time to acclimate.

Lima City Skylinea coastal city, at a mere 25 feet above sea level
 

Cusco City View... a city at 11,000 feet above sea level

We followed our travel agent’s advice. We flew from Lima to Cusco. I can attest to feeling the high altitude the second we stepped off the plane. I can’t describe the feeling of suddenly having less oxygen available. I wasn’t sick. I simply felt odd. Fortunately, a driver and guide awaited us.  We immediately began the descent into the Sacred Valley. The drive to our hotel turned out to be a spectacular experience, with views of the Andes Mountains much of the way. We stopped for photos and saw our first alpaca!

Traveling from Cusco to the Sacred ValleyThe Sacred Valley, or Urubamba Valley, of Peru is located in the highlands of the Andean mountains. It is home to the Spanish colonial villages of Pisac and Ollantaytambo. Travelers looking for shopping opportunities will be happy with Pisac's large handicraft market. At the top of Pisac's hillside, travelers will find one of the Sacred Valley’s most important sites for Incan ruins. This hillside citadel is an example of an Incan platform and urban planning system, very advanced for its time. It includes Incan architecture, agricultural terraces, an Incan hydraulic system, a military fortress, as well as residential and religious structures.
 

Traveling from Cusco to the Sacred Valley... our first alpaca sighting

I vividly recall thinking, this is how the duel meaning of the word “breathtaking” was derived. It would not be the last time I had that thought!

We finally arrived at our hotel in the Sacred Valley, and were advised to eat lightly, rest and acclimate that afternoon. It was not a difficult thing to do. We were thrilled to relax in our beautiful surroundings! Our hotel even had a “light” lunch menu to help visitors avoid altitude sickness. It was also the perfect base to visit other magnificent sites in the Sacred Valley the next day. My family members had no trouble with altitude sickness at this point. I did experience a bit of nausea at dinner time, but felt fine by the morning. 

Urubamba, Sacred Valley... at the Casa Andina Hotel

Urubamba, Sacred Valley... at the Casa Andina Hotel in the Sacred Valley

Alpaca on the Hotel Grounds...our greeter on the way to breakfast

Alpaca on the Hotel Grounds... enjoying breakfast

After two nights in the Sacred Valley, we were ready to take on Machu Picchu. As mentioned previously, entry is restricted in order to protect the site. As of our trip (May 2019), tickets allowed for entry in one of two time slots, four hours in the morning or four hours in the afternoon. We learned that a maximum of 2,500 visitors is allowed during each time slot. I also learned that plans are underway to reduce visits to three 3-hour time slots next year. Visitors may bring in water. None is available for purchase past the entry gate. There are also no rest rooms past the entry gate. If one leaves the grounds to use a rest room, he or she is not permitted back on the grounds that day. Keeping in mind the extensive hiking and climbing on uneven rocks and terrain, water bottle and rest room planning are essential!

Our travel agent wisely planned two entries for us into this spectacular site. She also arranged for Vistadome train tickets for travel to and from Aguas Calientes, the city at the base of the mountain.

Vistadome TrainThe Vistadome train is the only means of transportation to and from the town of Aguas Calientes, unless one chooses to hike the Inca Trail.

View from the Vistadome TrainThe Vistadome train is the only means of transportation to and from the town of Aguas Calientes, unless one chooses to hike the Inca Trail.

View from the Vistadome TrainThe Vistadome train is the only means of transportation to and from the town of Aguas Calientes, unless one chooses to hike the Inca Trail.
 

The Vistadome, a train with windows on all sides and in the ceiling, allows travelers to make the most of the scenic journey. We left Urubamba in the Sacred Valley in the morning and arrived in Aguas Calientes a couple of hours later, just in time for our afternoon entry into Machu Picchu with a guided tour. It was perfect planning!

Arriving at Aquas CalientesAguas Calientes is a city in the Urubamba River Valley. It serves as a stopping point for travelers going to and and from the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu and is known for its thermal baths, shops, eateries and the extensive craft market, Mercado Artesanal.

Visiting Aguas CalientesAguas Calientes is a city in the Urubamba River Valley. It serves as a stopping point for travelers going to and and from the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu and is known for its thermal baths, shops, eateries and the extensive craft market, Mercado Artesanal.

We still had to make our way up the side of the mountain. To reach Machu Picchu’s entry gate from Aguas Calientes, visitors have two options. The first is an approximate 30-minute shuttle bus to the entry gate over a switch back road. (The road takes some extreme zig zag turns up the mountain.) The second is a trail of steep stairs that takes approximately 1 to 1-1/2 hours to climb. Our agent arranged the shuttle bus for us. For some reason, I didn’t recall that particular choice when planning the trip, but was happy to have the shuttle bus option when I saw the stairs. It reserved our energy for the Machu Picchu terrain. It also began raining as we were leaving the grounds. The rocky stairs would have been slippery to descend at the end of the day!

Switch Back Path to Machu PicchuNotice the zig zag path along the mountain; it is the road that the shuttle bus uses to take visitors up the mountain.

We were fortunate that most of our afternoon was dry. Our guide gave us the history of the ancient city and explained the architecture, engineering and theories behind the construction of the site. 

Machu Picchu, entering the city

Architecture of Machu PicchuMachu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is thought to be one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries in recent history, largely because of the amount of knowledge it has revealed about Inca civilization. This "Lost City of the Incas" is located on the eastern slopes of the Andes mountains, near the low-lying Amazon basin.

Architecture of Machu PicchuClimbing the terraces

He also provided suggestions for our return visit the next morning, when we would be on our own. It was an incredible afternoon!

We spent the evening at a hotel at the base of the mountain and we all agreed – it was the best hotel that we experienced on our trip! They treated us like royalty! We also knew the lay of the town, thanks to our guide. 
 

Visiting Aguas CalientesAguas Calientes is a city in the Urubamba River Valley. It serves as a stopping point for travelers going to and and from the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu and is known for its thermal baths, shops, eateries and the extensive craft market, Mercado Artesanal.

Visiting Aguas CalientesAguas Calientes is a city in the Urubamba River Valley. It serves as a stopping point for travelers going to and and from the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu and is known for its thermal baths, shops, eateries and the extensive craft market, Mercado Artesanal.

We were ready for our free time without a guide the next morning. On our return to Machu Picchu, we decided to hike a trail to the Sun Gate, once the primary entrance to the city. The trail allows for spectacular views of the city ruins, as well as the mountains, valleys and terraces surrounding the city. It was a fantastic morning!

Path to the Sun GateMachu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is thought to be one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries in recent history, largely because of the amount of knowledge it has revealed about Inca civilization. This "Lost City of the Incas" is located on the eastern slopes of the Andes mountains, near the low-lying Amazon basin.

Terraces, Valley and Mountains

Sharing the Path... to the Sun Gate

Sharing the path... to the Sun Gate

Meeting a friend... on the path to the Sun Gate

Sun Gate Trail View

Sun Gate Trail View

View From the Topof the Sun Gate. That's Machu Picchu City, way in the distance! And notice the switch back road!

When finished, we took the bus back down the mountain, where we enjoyed lunch and some additional time exploring the quaint town of Aguas Calientes.

Welcome to Machu PicchuAguas Calientes is a city in the Urubamba River Valley. It serves as a stopping point for travelers going to and and from the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu and is known for its thermal baths, shops, eateries and the extensive craft market, Mercado Artesanal.

Visiting Aguas CalientesAguas Calientes is a city in the Urubamba River Valley. It serves as a stopping point for travelers going to and and from the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu and is known for its thermal baths, shops, eateries and the extensive craft market, Mercado Artesanal.

The Train Stationat Aguas Calientes

We boarded our train to our next destination late in the afternoon. We were ready for higher elevations and Cusco!

Many asked on our return how we dealt with the higher elevations. Altitude sickness can strike anyone, regardless of age or level of physical fitness. Effects were minimal but very tolerable for our group. We all felt that the minimal effects that we experienced were well worth the trip!

What exactly did we experience? I mentioned a bit of nausea at my first dinner. Two of us experienced a slight cough. I found myself having to stop to catch my breath much more quickly on stairs and on ascending paths, but it only took a few seconds to catch my breath and continue on. I awoke with relatively severe headaches every morning, a symptom of dehydration. Fortunately, I found that a good breakfast with plenty of liquids completely eliminated my headache pain for the day – and all five of our hotels included wonderful buffet breakfasts in our plans! I was able to quickly recover from the headaches. Then, on the last day of our trip, when we reached our highest elevation at 13,500 feet, both of my adult sons experienced nose bleeds. Fortunately, both knew how to deal with nose bleeds and had come prepared. They had no difficulty getting them under control and enjoyed that last day!

TombsSillustani is a pre-Incan cemetery used for Colla nobility on the shores of Lake Umayo near Puno in Peru.

Lake UmayoSillustani is a pre-Incan cemetery used for Colla nobility on the shores of Lake Umayo near Puno in Peru.

As for remedies, Peruvians are known to chew on coca leaves to deal with altitude sickness and many hotels offer guests warm coca tea. One son and I tried the coca tea, but we couldn’t determine if it helped. When I was dealing with nausea, a hotel worker suggested muña 
tea instead. It is simply a mint tea from a variety of plant that grows in the highlands of Peru. I really enjoyed the muña tea
and began drinking that instead of the coca. (Visitors should keep in mind that an ingredient from the coca plant can be extracted and processed to produce cocaine. The leaves and tea do not have the same effect as cocaine in their unprocessed form, but visitors should know that, when returning home, the coca can remain in the blood for a couple of weeks and cause positive results for cocaine in a blood test.) Other potential treatments for altitude sickness include rest, descent into lower altitudes, abstaining from alcohol, tobacco and sleeping pills, and drinking plenty of fluids. Many visitors take diamox (available as a prescription drug from a doctor before leaving home) to prepare for the high altitudes. Others take gingko biloba, ibuprofen or Tylenol. Effectiveness varies according to which study one reads. One son and I tried Diamox. The other son (the one that declined the coca tea) tried gingko biloba. He happened to experience the fewest effects of the three of us, but it’s difficult to say whether the herb had anything to do with it.

Note that I focused on Machu Picchu planning in this post, as it is the most common travel destination on a trip to Peru. Visitors typically plan their other Peruvian destinations around Machu Picchu. Be assured, there are plenty of sites to see! The challenge is that many of these sites are at varying altitudes, requiring travel over mountains, through valleys, through cities and on lakes. We traveled by plane, train, tour bus and boat to arrive at all of the sites we visited on our ten-day journey. We also stayed at five different hotels! I will post more about the other sites that we visited soon. Follow Anne Warfield Photography on Facebook for updates. Or, click on my Peru photo galleries, for a preview.

Machu PicchuMachu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is thought to be one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries in recent history, largely because of the amount of knowledge it has revealed about Inca civilization. This "Lost City of the Incas" is located on the eastern slopes of the Andes mountains, near the low-lying Amazon basin.

What is so special about Machu Picchu?

Machu PicchuMachu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is thought to be one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries in recent history, largely because of the amount of knowledge it has revealed about Inca civilization. This "Lost City of the Incas" is located on the eastern slopes of the Andes mountains, near the low-lying Amazon basin.

In general, I am drawn to nature and spectacular landscapes. Add an intriguing history of ancient civilization, and that travel destination goes to the top of my bucket list! The Lost City of the Incas is thought to be one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries in recent history, largely because of the amount of knowledge it has revealed about Incan civilization. While Incan ruins have been discovered throughout Peru, this particular discovery is a well-preserved masterpiece of Incan archeology, engineering and urban planning. A sacred site, the ruins have also shed light on the religious practices of the sun-worshipping Incan people. Finally, at the meeting point of the eastern slopes of the Andes Mountains and the low-lying Amazon basin, it is an area rich in biodiversity. Imagine well-preserved and intricate walls, terraces and ramps of an ancient people, set among mountains, peaks and valleys with cloud forests, tropical forests, multiple microclimates and a wide variety of species, flora and fauna.

Awe-inspiring? Breathtaking? Jaw-dropping? Try as I might, there are no simple words or photos that do justice to this incredible site.
 

Machu PicchuMachu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is thought to be one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries in recent history, largely because of the amount of knowledge it has revealed about Inca civilization. This "Lost City of the Incas" is located on the eastern slopes of the Andes mountains, near the low-lying Amazon basin.

Pathway in Machu Picchu City

Architecture of Machu PicchuMachu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is thought to be one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries in recent history, largely because of the amount of knowledge it has revealed about Inca civilization. This "Lost City of the Incas" is located on the eastern slopes of the Andes mountains, near the low-lying Amazon basin.

Andes MountainsMachu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is thought to be one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries in recent history, largely because of the amount of knowledge it has revealed about Inca civilization. This "Lost City of the Incas" is located on the eastern slopes of the Andes mountains, near the low-lying Amazon basin.

Machu Picchu ArchitectureTerraces abound at Machu Picchu

Llamas... of Machu Picchu


Llamasenjoying the view

Architecture of Machu PicchuMachu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is thought to be one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries in recent history, largely because of the amount of knowledge it has revealed about Inca civilization. This "Lost City of the Incas" is located on the eastern slopes of the Andes mountains, near the low-lying Amazon basin.

What Have Archaeologists Learned?

The city was discovered in 1911, by Yale professor and archaeologist, Hiram Bingham, who had been leading a joint expedition with the Peruvian government in search of another Incan site called Vitcos. Chronicles of the journey show that Bingham met up with a local farmer who led him to the ruins. Bingham later named the site Machu Picchu, a Quechua phrase that means “Old Mountain”. No one actually knows what the Incas called the city, however. Ruins reveal a city built in the 1400s, at the height of the Incan Empire. Structures were originally thought to be a temple for high priests, but archaeologists continually gain new understanding. Our guide explained that more recent studies describe a country home for nobility, supported by a city with religious, agricultural and urban areas. He helped us identify three distinguishable types of architecture for these uses. Farmers and workers used structures built of smaller stones and mortar. Many of those structures have had to be re-built to preserve the site. Buildings of a slightly stronger structure are thought to have been used by a religious or sacred class. The structures that have truly puzzled archaeologists and historians are those designed for nobility. These were made of perfectly cut and aligned, stones of granite - some massive - built at the highest levels of the city, without mortar. How could an ancient people carve such perfect stones, move and align them on such challenging terrain, without the help of modern tools, equipment, technology, or even the wheel? Theories are plentiful, as is debate. One theory goes so far as to say that it was simply impossible. Aliens must have come to earth and created Machu Picchu!

Machu Picchu Architecture

Architecture of Machu PicchuAll three types of architecture are illustrated in the photo. The structure at the top, center illustrates the perfectly aligned stones, built for nobility.

Our guide provided more earthly theories, however. He pointed out the absence of mortar between stones (see structure at the top and center of the photo), but also described a locking mechanism carved into the inner areas of these stones, similar to lego blocks. He illustrated with his fingers how the carvings fit together and locked the stones in place. We actually saw an example of these lego-like carvings at a historical site in Cusco, later in our trip.

Koricancha TempleIncan stone work used no mortar, but an inner locking system of stone carvings, allowing individual stones to fit together.

Incan ArchitectureHoles in stones would allow pegs from adjacent stones to secure a structure in a lego-like form of engineering.
 

As for moving massively heavy, granite stones, our guide pointed out the foundation on which several of the perfectly cut buildings for nobility were placed. Many were atop huge rock formations that occurred naturally in the mountainous terrain. He explained that long cylindrical shaped-stones were also found in the ruins. No one knows for certain their use, but one theory is that they were covered with alpaca hide and used in a manner similar to the wheel, rolling heavier pieces of granite with ramps. In Cusco, another guide explained that as many as 1,000 workers sometimes moved more massive pieces of granite. Carving the stones for one building might take as many as 30 or 35 years, a lifetime for some of these workers. Guides pointed out the shapes of stones and of the structures themselves. Buildings were angled slightly inward, at varying degrees depending on the slope of the terrain on which they were set. Window and door openings were hexagon-shaped. It is thought that this engineering allowed buildings to withstand movements such as earthquakes, a common occurrence in Peru. In fact, two 8.0+ earthquakes have been documented at Machu Picchu since the 1400s, with little or no damage done to the high-end buildings engineered for the nobility class. An 8.0+ earthquake even hit a northern area of Peru on the day that we were in Cusco. It occurred as we were sleeping. The quake was a good distance from Cusco and we never felt a thing. We were relieved, nonetheless, when we realized that our hotel had a foundation of this Incan engineering. Remains of these structures can be found throughout the country in a variety of buildings that are still in use today.

Machu Picchu ArchitectureCarefully placed windows

Incan ArchitectureRuins from an Inca palace and temple in Cusco. Note the slanted walls.

Koricancha TempleRuins from an ancient Inca palace and temple in Cusco. Doors and windows were carefully designed, shaped and placed with intention.

As for Machu Picchu, archaeologists believe the Incas used the city for only about 100 years. It was abandoned around the time of the Spanish conquest of Peru. Experts believe that Incas suspected the Spanish were nearby and about to pillage their city. So, they fled over the mountains to a nearby valley. Ruins of many other Incan sites were found plundered by the Spanish. Because Machu Picchu’s ruins were largely in tact upon discovery, archaeologists theorize that the Spanish never found the city. It’s no wonder that this site remained largely hidden, given that it is surrounded by mountains on three sides and hidden by a steep and forested terrain on the remaining side. As the centuries passed, the site became overgrown and remained hidden until Bingham’s discovery.

The city and its surroundings are truly a magnificent site to behold. It’s not an easy site to travel to, however. Stay tuned for my text post (follow Anne Warfield Photography on Facebook for notification), where I discuss planning a trip to the Lost City of the Incas.

Machu Picchu Architecture

Terraces of Machu PicchuMachu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is thought to be one of the world’s most significant archaeological discoveries in recent history, largely because of the amount of knowledge it has revealed about Inca civilization. This "Lost City of the Incas" is located on the eastern slopes of the Andes mountains, near the low-lying Amazon basin.
 

The Andes Mountains... peaking through the clouds

La JollaCoastline (DSLR)

La JollaSea Lion Watching (DSLR)

La Jolla Palm TreesiPhone photo

I brought along both my DSLR and iPhone cameras. If you follow me on either Facebook or Instagram, you know that I've been playing with my iPhoneography and experimenting to learn when I prefer one camera over the other. In general, I am concluding that the two cameras pair well on vacation.

For the photography experts out there, my standard DSLR "walk-around" set up is a Nikon d850, with AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm, f3.5-5.6 zoom lens. Although I have other lenses for various photographic needs, this is my lens for outdoor, daytime exploring - when I don't want to carry a lot of equipment around. Honestly, it's still a huge camera that draws attention - and it gets heavy. 

DSLR & iPhone X28-300mm lens at its widest setting and smallest size

DSLR & iPhone X28-300mm when fully zoomed; it draws attention!

As you can see, my iPhone X is much smaller and less obvious in a crowd. I use the iPhone's basic camera and photography apps that come pre-installed on the smartphone, as well as several inexpensive and free camera and photography apps available in iOS and Android app stores. I occasionally attach an add-on lens (tele, wide angle or macro) from Moment. The add-on lenses require a Moment smartphone case and camera app. The case is slim, but protective, and allows for a secure screw-on attachment. The camera app is simple to use and allows for manual adjustments. Lenses are also small enough that they easily slip into a purse when I don't want to carry around a camera bag full of equipment. My iPhone case has a small hole in the bottom for attaching a wrist or neck strap. When using both cameras, I tend to walk around with my DSLR around my neck and my iPhone around my wrist. The result is quick access to whichever camera I am inclined to use in the moment. I simply love the fact that I'm getting better and better pictures with my smartphone camera, with a lot less effort and weight. My iPhone camera now feels like a legitimate camera option! 

Moment case, telephoto lens & capA screw on lens allows for a secure connection between the case and lens.

Close Up... on that telephoto lens

My iPhone Camera GearMy iPhone add-on lenses with microfiber bags that act as cleaning cloths and a separate cleaning pen for those tiny iPhone lenses.

Back to the DSLR -- as usual, I was very happy with the scenic photos that it produced, while walking along La Jolla's coastline.

La JollaSunny Jim Sea Cave

La JollaCoastline

I still prefer using my DSLR for freezing motion.

Catching LaughterSea Lion
Catching the Take OffSea bird in motion

In FlightSea Bird

Landing Among FriendsSea Birds

The 28-300mm DSLR lens also allows me to zoom in much closer over long distances than my iPhone while maintaining the quality of the image. The smartphone pinching method may get me close to my subject, but it uses both an optical zoom (up to 2x the distance) and a digital zoom (2x-10x the distance). So, what's the difference between optical and digital? Remember that smartphones and DSLRs both have built-in computers and camera parts. A digital zoom means that computer software controls the zoom function. An optical zoom means that camera parts control the zoom function. Most of a smartphone's zooming is accomplished with computer software. A DSLR uses its camera optics to control a zoom. Because computer software can cause pixelation, the farther out I zoom with a smartphone, the more pixelation I'm likely to see. It is especially noticeable when trying to enlarge or print the image. So, a DSLR lens can zoom much further and maintain quality.

I don't completely avoid my iPhone for zooming, however. I try to limit my zoom to 2x (easier to do on some iPhones than others) and add on my tele lens. This increases the distance to 4x and maintains the optical zoom. On my photography outings these days, I consider just how close I want to get to my subjects. Will I be satisfied with the distance of my iPhone set-up, or do I want to get closer to my subjects with my DSLR set-up? I was happy with the iPhone/tele lens set up on the image below:

Sea Lion WatchingiPhoneography

What about low light? My DSLR has always taken amazing images in these conditions, but the best images involve a tripod, remote shutter release, a different lens capable of letting in more available light, and experimenting with manual mode settings. Smartphone technology has improved to the point where I don't always need all of those extras to capture a low light photo. The images below were taken with my iPhone camera, hand-held, while visiting La Jolla's popular "Sunny Jim Sea Cave".

Through the TunnelHeading down to Sunny Jim's Sea Cave

Looking Out From the CaveSunny Jim's Sea Cave

I also took a few handheld DSLR photos in the tunnel and cave. The tunnel photos weren't worth keeping. I did manage to get a hand-held DSLR photo looking out from the cave. Here's the image, for comparison purposes:

Sunny Jim Sea CaveDSLR photo

My DSLR did better than expected without a tripod set-up, although it required holding my camera as steady as possible while snapping five photos at different exposures (i.e., bracketing). After traveling home, I then combined those photos in post-processing on my computer to produce the above image. Pfew! In comparison, the iPhone pics (cave and tunnel) required no photography expertise other than a tap of a camera app. I did have to stand still for a second or two. The app did all of that processing for me and I left the scene with my final photos. Yes, a DSLR tripod set-up may have produced higher quality images, but I suspect the attendant would have stopped me from using it in either the tunnel or cave. The environment was fragile and the steps were too narrow in the tunnel. I would have blocked other tourists trying to visit. Given that I was simply exploring while on vacation (as opposed to taking photos for a paid shoot), inquiring about permission didn't seem worthwhile. And I was quite pleased with my hand-held iPhone photos!

Finally, when I carry both cameras, I always try to take a few similar images with each camera to compare the results. Hover over each image below to determine if it was taken with a DSLR or iPhone.

Sunny Jim Sea CaveDSLR photography

Sunny Jim Sea CaveiPhoneography

La Jolla CoastlineDSLR Photography

La Jolla CoastlineiPhoneography

Kayaking in La JollaDSLR photography

La Jolla CoastlineiPhoneography

Are you wondering about printing? Due to technology advancements, I now regularly enlarge iPhone images to 16x20" without issues. I recently gave an iPhoneography demonstration to a group of elementary school students at their annual Art Fair. I showed the children enlarged prints from both cameras, so that they could compare. I was amused when several children exclaimed, quite confidently, that they preferred my iPhone images over the other! 😉 😃

If you live in St. Louis, or plan to visit #MyCitySTL and would like to know how you can improve your iPhoneography feel free to contact me! You won't have to purchase expensive add-on equipment (unless you want to). I can provide tips on best zoom practices and even how to widen a photo - both with your built-in iPhone app. 

And, yes, the word iPhoneography is actually being used in photography circles! Look it up in the Urban Dictionary, then embrace it! Become an iPhoneographer with me!

In my early 20s, I found myself envious of friends from the East Coast. I thought, how fun it would be to hop in the car or on a train and be in another big city within a couple of hours. Life seemed so much more exciting! As much as I love traveling to bigger cities, the more "mature me" (a midwesterner) now realizes that smaller or lesser known destinations can have huge potential. It can be fun to explore, just to see places where I've never been!

Consider Bentonville, Arkansas, for example. My husband and I were looking for a road trip this past Labor Day weekend and remembered hearing about a fantastic, newer Art Museum in the town. Then we remembered that there is a 21c Museum Hotel in Bentonville. We stayed at one in Louisville a few years ago and have always wanted to try another. These hotels are destinations in and of themselves. So, off we went!

21c Museum Hotel, Louisville, KYThe original hotel in the boutique 21c chain

It's an easy trip across Missouri. Head west from St. Louis, then south at Joplin. Cross the state line into Arkansas and drive a mere 12 miles further. The approximate 6-hour road trip (relatively short by midwestern standards) led us to our southern destination!

Of course, our primary destination was the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art. We were immediately struck by the clean lines and contemporary architectural design of the complex, which only just opened in November 2011. 

Museum ArchitectureCrystal Bridges Museum of American Art

Museum ArchitectureCrystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, AR

Museum ArchitectureCrystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, AR

The museum complex is comprised of eight glass-and-wood design buildings, with seven galleries, a restaurant, a gift shop, a library with 60,000 items and art studios, as well as a sculpture garden, a series of pavilions surrounding two creek-fed ponds, outdoor spaces for concerts and public events, and even extensive nature trails. Yes, this complex is huge!
 

Museum DesignCrystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, AR

Architecture and DesignInside the Museum

MamanMain Entrance to the Museum
 

The museum features art collections from the colonial period through the present, and has partnered with such reputable museums and institutions as the National Gallery of Art, (D.C.) the Louvre Museum in Paris, the High Museum of Art in Atlanta and the Terra Foundation for American Art (headquartered in Chicago).

Gallery
Art

SculptureCrystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, AR
 

The museum’s art, its architecture, and the surrounding nature all seem to blend together in a way that complement each other.

Art, Architecture, NatureComplementary Design

Reflecting the North Lawn View

Fly's Eye DomeNorth Lawn

Why place such a grand museum complex in a small town like Bentonville? Some initially questioned the decision, debating whether a larger city would have allowed the experiences to be accessible to a greater number of people. The answer is with the founder, Alice Walton. Bentonville happens to be the hometown of the Walton family, and Alice’s father, Sam, happens to be the founder of Walmart. The Walmart Family Foundation has donated extensive funds to the museum. Alice’s main goals were “to bring art appreciation to Arkansas and nearby states and to draw visitors from farther away”.  Thanks to a grant from Walmart, regular admittance to the museum is free, although select temporary exhibits charge a fee.

A permanent exhibit on the grounds is the Frank Lloyd Wright House. We took a self-guided tour. The original concrete, mahogany and glass house was built in 1954. It was disassembled and transported from New Jersey, re-assembled and finally opened to the public at Crystal Bridges in 2015. I particularly liked the minimal look and the way the design led the eye to focus on the environment surrounding the home. Although admittance is free, tickets are required for entry. Same day tickets were sold out on our first day in Bentonville. Visitors are advised to reserve tickets in advance.

Frank Lloyd Wright HouseCrystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, AR
 

Frank Lloyd Wright HouseCrystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, AR
 

The temporary exhibit,  “The Beyond: Georgia O’Keeffe and Contemporary Art”, closed at the end of the holiday weekend. We felt fortunate to see it! The exhibit featured O’Keeffe’s own works as well as those of 20 emerging artists who have been inspired by O’Keeffe. Prior to the weekend, my impression of O’Keeffe was her paintings - huge close-ups of flowers and New Mexico scenes. After seeing the exhibit, I realized she was about much more – sculptures, abstracts and even cities. I was surprised to learn that the “Roaring 20s” in New York City inspired her flower paintings. In Georgia’s words, she “realized that were I to paint the same flowers so small no one would look at them because I was unknown. So I thought I’ll make them big like the huge buildings going up. People will be startled – they’ll have to look at them – and they did”. (Source: The Beyond, Georgia O’Keeffe and Contemporary Art, Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art)

Radiator Building-Night New York, 1827Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, AR

Georgia O'Keeffe SculptureCrystal Bridges Museum of American Art

Deer Skull with Blue Vase, Anna ValdezInspired by Georgia O'Keeffe

Amy Sherald’s work received significant attention in the news this past year after completing the official portrait for First Lady Michelle Obama. While that portrait currently resides in the National Portrait Gallery in Washington, D.C., I enjoyed viewing other portraits by this talented artist.

Amy Sherald

Trails are a large part of the Crystal Bridges experience. Sculptures can be found on several trails. The Orchard Trail leads to a particularly noteworthy sculpture, Leo Villareal’s Buckyball. The sculpture consists of 180 LED tubes arranged to form two nested spheres. Software controls the lights, creating an ever-changing light display. We happened to be in Bentonville for Light Night, a town festival of music, dancing, art and lights, with the Buckyball as its centerpiece attraction. Residents decorate their bikes with lights and join in on a pre-party glow ride. A happy hour precedes the bike parade. It is a huge town event.

Light NightCrystal Bridges Museum of American Art festival

Light Night

Light NightCrystal Bridges Museum of American Art festival

Hiking and biking trails are another large part of the Bentonville experience. The “Crystal Bridges Trail” connects to downtown Bentonville and the trailheads for Slaughter Pen Hollow, renowned to be one the best mountain biking trails in the country.

Bicycle TrailCrystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, AR

Bike Trail
Bike Trail

The “Art Trail” (.5 miles long) connects Crystal Bridges to Bentonville’s Town Square. Stay at the 21c Museum Hotel and you may never need to bring your car out of the hotel garage. This unique boutique hotel is nestled right in between.

What exactly is a “Museum Hotel”? It is a very unique and fun experience that combines your hotel stay with contemporary art. In fact, the hotel has so much art, that each individual hotel hires its own curator. Exhibits rotate among this boutique chain's eight hotels. 

21c Museum HotelBentonville, Arkansas

Arrive at the 21c and find art before even exiting your car. Monica Mahoney's 1962 Cadillac limousine, "Making Change", sits out front. And, yes, the vehicle is functional and available for rent. The limo is covered in pennies, nickels and dimes to reflect the history and social impact of Walmart on the town of Bentonville. The coin motif derives from Sam Walton's original 5 &10, that sits just around the corner. Coincidentally (or not so coincidentally), Walmart was also founded in Bentonville in the year 1962.

Walton's 5-10Bentonville, Arkansas
"Making Change"

"Making Change"

Note the stripe down the side. It is made up entirely of 1962 pennies.

The Kiss21c Museum Hotel, Bentonville, AR

The Kiss21c Museum Hotel, Bentonville, AR
 

The 21c offers a free tour with its art curator every Friday at 5pm. It's a great way to learn some fun facts about the art. We learned that Chinese artist, Lui Wei, created “The Kiss” (above) to make a statement about the environment. The polar bear has become a symbol of global warming. The animal's survival is now totally dependent on humans. The little boy had no part in the current state of global warming, but the weight of it is on his shoulders. It will be up to his generation to decide the fate of the polar bear and our world's environment. 

The hotel's art also includes framed pieces, video and sculptures with movement.

21c ArtBentonville, Arkansas

21c ArtBentonville, Arkansas

21c Art21c Museum Hotel, Bentonville, AR

Seen at "The Hive"... the hotel's restaurant

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Hotel guests sometimes appear to be a part of the artwork.

21c Entrance21c Museum Hotel, Bentonville, AR
 

Finally, I can't talk about the 21c without mentioning the penguins. Each boutique hotel has them. They are everywhere - the rooftop, the entry foyer, the restaurant, the hallways, and more. Staff and guests are invited to move them around. One never knows where a penguin will pop up. Open your elevator door and find a couple waiting to greet you. Walk down the hallway and one may be standing guard. Open your hotel room door to find a penguin waiting to surprise you. Perhaps your server will bring one to your table at the restaurant to keep you company. It's a fun interactive idea!

PenguinsBentonville, Arkansas

PenguinsBentonville, Arkansas

PenguinsBentonville, Arkansas

Lunch with a PenguinBentonville, Arkansas

When you need a break from the museums and trails, know that you will find plenty of food and drink in Bentonville. The atmosphere might be described as an unusual mix of southern tradition and contemporary vibes. Food choices range from southern comfort and more traditional American to ethnic and artisanal culinary. Craft breweries are abundant. Find a speak easy beneath the trendy Preacher's Son, a restaurant renovated from an old church. Ice cream is served fountain-style next to the old 5 & 10. Onyx Coffee has a terrific pour over. Or, (if you stay at the 21c), pour your own black coffee made with Onyx beans. Visit on a Saturday morning and find a vibrant Farmer's Market in the Town Square. On the holiday weekend that we were in town, we found a fair number of folks wandering around the Town Square in the evening as well.

Town SquareBentonville, Arkansas
Preacher's SonBentonville, Arkansas

Onyx Coffee House

Farmer's Market

We found some interesting statistics on display in the Walmart Museum. The Bentonville population has grown from 3,649 in 1960 to 41,725 in 2015. The predicted population for 2030 is 65,247. The median age of residents (31.9) is considerably younger than that of both the state of Arkansas (37.4) and of the country (38.1). Granted, our trip was short, but our limited impression of Bentonville was that of a small southern town, growing and taking on some big city trends, with a vibrant and relatively young population. 
 

Click to see more photos from our artsy Bentonville experience.

For the artsy among you, we can get creative and learn about the apps. Instruction can be customized. Browse my iPhoneography galleries for more samples and contact me to learn some apps designed to bring out the creativity hidden away inside of you. Become a mobile photography app whisperer!

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If you live in St. Louis or plan to visit the area, contact Anne Warfield to improve your smartphone photography. Instruction is with an iPhone. All smartphones are welcome. Click for more information.

Let's face it. That photo roll is confusing. Why do I keep seeing one photo everywhere and have so much difficulty finding another photo? Learn how iPhone organizes your photos. Then, create your own albums and folders and create a method that works for you.

photo roll

If you live in St. Louis or plan to visit the area, contact Anne Warfield to improve your smartphone photography.  Click for more information.

Professional photographers have been doing this for a long time. Think DSLRs, tripods, remote controls, filters. The more recent iPhones can now do this with a simple swipe, scroll, and a tap. Granted, the DSLR image will likely still win the contest, but the iPhone does a pretty amazing job! If you don't have the expensive equipment with you - or if you simply don't have the expensive equipment - it's a fun trick to learn! (Try it with fireworks too!)

photocomparisonlongexposure

If you live in St. Louis or plan to visit the area, contact Anne Warfield to improve your smartphone photography. Click for more information.

The pano is a lot of fun to play with, but... how many times have you taken one of those super long, narrow pics, then realized there's not much you can do with it? You can barely even see the details of the image on your phone! If you're lucky, you may get an image that turns out somewhat straight, like the first image below.

photocomparisonlandscape

We'll learn some new ways to take that pano; ways that may just make it a little more useful. (Note: the following three images are all panos of the same wall... simply taken three different ways.)

photocomparisonpano

Sorry, I don't have an editing scenario for you with this idea. None is needed to achieve these results!

If you live in St. Louis or plan to visit the area, contact Anne Warfield to improve your smartphone photography. Instruction is with an iPhone, but all smartphones are welcome. Click for more information.

Check out the utility wire in the upper right corner of the original photo below. I removed it in a matter of seconds. In fact, I did it so quickly, that I decided to brighten up the photo (just a "tad") as well.

photocomparisonvertical

Today's scenario: Imagine waiting in the pick-up line at your child's school. Admit it, you know you want to pull out that smartphone! You're a couple of minutes early and the car is parked and in gear. You can handle this fix before you see your child is anywhere near the car!

If you live in St. Louis or plan to visit the area, contact Anne Warfield to improve your smartphone photography. Instruction is with an iPhone, but all smartphones are welcome. Click for more information.

We'll learn some simple steps to take as you snap the photo. We'll also learn some quick and easy fixes... just in case you look at your photo after you return home, and realize you forgot those steps!

photocomparisonbeach

If you live in St. Louis or plan to visit the area, contact Anne Warfield to improve your smartphone photography. Instruction is with an iPhone, but all smartphones are welcome. Click for more information.

photocomparisonanne

So... imagine yourself on vacation. What do you do while waiting for family members in the rest room? Do you pull out that smartphone and try to fill some time? Why not pull up a favorite vacation pic and make a quick adjustment. It's that quick and easy! All you need is your smartphone?

photocomparisontruman

If you live in St. Louis or plan to visit the area, contact Anne Warfield to improve your smartphone photography. Instruction is with an iPhone, but all smartphones are welcome. Click for more information.

Saint Louis ZooThe St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

First, for the readers who may not be familiar with St. Louis, know that the St. Louis Zoo has been named best zoo in the country two years in a row (2017 and 2018 - USA Today 10Best Readers’ Choice Awards contest).  Conde' Nast Traveler also names our Zoo among the country's best.

St Louis Zoo TrainThe St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

What makes the St. Louis Zoo so special? I can’t speak for everyone, but I personally love all of the attractions that let visitors get up close with the animals. There are many, including Kali, the polar bear, the penguins, the sea lions, the jungle of the apes, hippos and more. One of my favorites has always been the giraffes. I still remember the thrill on my young sons’ faces when a giraffe would stretch one of their long necks toward a tree overhanging the visitors’ area and grab a leaf with an incredibly long tongue. Honestly, I think I was just as awed by the experience. 

I’ve also enjoyed hearing about the many newborns over the years. My first memory of a newborn was Raja the elephant. That was back in 1992, well before my children were born. In recent months, our Zoo has fostered the birth of a male Grevy’s zebra foal (7/19/2018), a Speke’s gazelle calf (7/9/2018), a female mongoose lemur (7/5/2018), a male black-and-white Colobus Monkey (12/29/17), and eight baby cheetah cubs (11/26/2017). It’s difficult to decide on a favorite. Baby animals always bring excitement to a Zoo experience!

I have a small gallery of animal photos but, again, the goal on this visit was to capture scenic images (as opposed to live animals). Of course, the Zoo is all about animals. So, I did include animal sculptures in some of the scenes. 

Conservation Carousel, St Louis Zoo IHand-carved wooden animal sculptures, representing protected and endangered species, are found on the Mary Ann Lee Conservation Carousel at the St Louis Zoo in Forest Park.

St Louis Zoo Grounds IThe St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

Missouri Meadow at the St Louis ZooThe St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

St Louis Zoo Elephant Greeter IThe St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

St Louis Zoo Bird House VThe St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

Outside the St Louis Zoo InsectariumThe St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

St Louis Zoo Grounds IIThe St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

I ended my visit with a walk through the River’s Edge. I didn’t anticipate taking photos since the ideal lighting conditions were waning. I simply thought it would be a nice walk before leaving for home. To my surprise, the elephants were out and putting on a show. It was breakfast time and they were playing in the water. I couldn’t resist taking out my camera one last time. Yes, I now have a photo gallery just for elephants.

Asian Elephant, St Louis Zoo 8The St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

Asian Elephant, St Louis Zoo 3The St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

Asian Elephant, St Louis Zoo 22The St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

Asian Elephant, St Louis Zoo 6The St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

Asian Elephant, St Louis Zoo 34The St. Louis Zoo is frequently named best zoo in the country (St Louis Business Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. Entrance is free, as with so many of our Forest Park attractions. Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

Finally, one of the best features of our St. Louis Zoo is that there is no admittance fee. In fact, on the Wednesday morning that I visited, carousel rides were free for the first hour. Our Zoo is truly special, as are so many of our Forest Park attractions... and so many of our Forest Park attractions are free! Families looking for a fun and affordable vacation will definitely find it in St. Louis!

Animals Always

iPhone X

Today, wider apertures let in more light. Flashes have become less bulky and power hungry, thanks to LED technology. Some smartphone flashes even use dual LED lights, allowing for slightly different color temperatures and better color balance. Slow sync technology allows the shutter to stay open longer and reduces the amount of light needed from the flash. Phase detection technology is another improvement. Often built right into the sensor, it is faster, improves focus and allows information to come in from both sides of the camera, helping the camera determine where the perfect focus should be. Finally, optical image stabilization allows the shutter to stay open longer, without blur, for still photos. It also helps make videos less shaky.

Eads BridgeMetrolink Stop

Manufacturers have even found a way to deal with sensor size. They couldn't make a single sensor larger, so they added a second sensor to the more advanced smartphones. Dual camera sensors offer different perspectives, making it possible to add depth to scenes. They allow for extra brightness and contrast definition. They have more light-sensitive pixels, allowing for better images in low light. Finally, they have faster speeds, zoom capabilities and better video.

Portrait ModeDual cameras allow for depth in a scene.

Despite all of the improvements, larger DSLRs and mirrorless cameras still offer better optics (the actual camera components) than most smartphones. All digital cameras, however, use small, built-in computers to work their magic. Better software processing and algorithms give the smartphone an advantage over DSLRs and mirrorless cameras and are making up for the smartphone's physical limitations. Who knows what the future holds? Sony just announced a return to more megapixels, introducing the first 48-megapixel smartphone sensor. Technology continues to improve. Will we see a better sensor in a more compact size?

Forest ParkIt's easy to carry a smartphone in a small bicycle bag when out on the trail.

No, I haven't given up on my DSLR equipment. I still use it regularly. I simply enjoy the versatility of a no-bulk camera, when I don't need a DSLR. Notice that I intentionally said "no bulk". Many photographers are looking for "less bulk" in their camera purchases. I tried a mirrorless camera for awhile. Despite the smaller size, I still found the need for a separate camera bag for the camera and lenses. When I wanted the best images possible, I packed my DSLR. When I didn't need my DSLR, I found myself leaving the mirrorless behind and using my iPhone in its place. So, I sold the mirrorless. I realize that mirrorless cameras have their place, but I really enjoy my compact smartphone. Even with a few add-on lenses, I don't need the extra camera bag. I pack it all in a relatively small purse or bag, and know that I always have a camera on hand.

Telephoto Lens A screw on lens allows for a secure connection between the case and lens. Add-On Lenses... a few of Moment's high quality add-on smartphone lenses

Lily... taken with a Moment add-on telephoto lens

Finally, I recently thought back on my first DSLR purchase and everything I did to improve my photography. I took classes, read books and articles, and practiced every chance I had. I started a 365 project (a photo a day for a year), but quickly converted to a 52-week project (once a week instead). I remember that, as a parent of young children and a preschool teacher, it was tedious trying to take my DSLR equipment with me everywhere. I did enjoy the weekly DSLR project - so much so - that I continued it after that first year. The result was a huge collection of photos of various St. Louis neighborhoods and attractions. I now smile at the effort that went into project. I still take photos of St. Louis neighborhoods and attractions, but have realized that the project has evolved back into a 365 project the last couple of years, without my even thinking about it. My powerful little smartphone has made it that much easier.

Gateway Arch Visitors CenterArch Grounds

Are you using your smartphone's camera to its fullest potential?  Find sample smartphone photography in one of my galleries. Or, follow me on Instagram where I only post iPhoneography. If you live in St. Louis or are planning a trip here, and would like to learn more, click to learn how. 

The most important consideration is to be comfortable in your clothing! Try not to agonize over the process. If you feel good in what you’re wearing, you are more likely to experience a successful portrait session. If you find yourself constantly adjusting a new outfit, or wondering if an item of clothing makes you look heavy, your discomfort will likely show in your portrait. So, regardless of any other suggestions, be comfortable in your clothing.

High School Senior

Granted, a few guidelines may help you find that level of comfort. You may wish to consider the following:

1. Solid colors are preferable, as prints and patterns take the focus away from the face. To add interest, consider layering your clothing, using subtle pops of color or simple accessories. Textures can enhance an image as well, especially if black and whites are the goal. Remember that the focal point of the image should be the face and emotions. Don’t let the clothing and accessories create distractions.

2. Whites and off-whites, on top, tend to work with most skin tones. Paired with darker bottoms, they can give the image a brighter and more casual look. 

3. Darker clothing can create a more serious tone, but can also have a slimming effect.

4. Lighter shades of color can add a bit of “pop”. If you feel that pastels “wash out” your skin tone, choose a bolder shade. Very bright shades sometimes draw attention to the clothing and away from the face, so choose brighter shades carefully.

5. Avoid clothing with logos, graphics, characters and labels.

6. Blue jeans are a timeless choice for casual portraits. They are generally flattering, as they don’t show underlying lines and they don’t wrinkle. In an outdoor location, you may feel more comfortable sitting on the ground for a unique pose.

7. Bare arms, low necklines and other skin exposure can also draw attention away from the face, especially with close-ups. Sleeveless tops and wide necklines sometimes add fullness to arms and necks. Longer sleeves and higher necklines can have a slimming effect and help to frame the face.

8. Timeless, rather than trendy, clothing can keep your image from looking dated.

9. Hair should be styled simply and off the face to keep shadows away from the face and eyes, the focal points of your image.  Consider hair spray on a windy day.

10. Makeup is great, but keep it natural. Bold colors or heavy makeup is more likely to draw attention to the makeup, rather than to the face and eyes. Matte make-up or translucent powder can help with unwanted shine. Lip gloss adds an attractive shine. Chapstick can keep lips from drying out on men or women. If you wake up with a sudden outbreak of acne, don’t fret. Re-touching works wonders!

11. If you are still uncertain about a particular outfit, have a friend take a cell phone picture of you in the outfit prior to the photo session, to help you evaluate.

Here are a few additional considerations for specific types of portraits.

Family Portraits

Coordinate colors, but try not to match exactly. A neutral color and one or two color pops are ideal. Paint card color palettes are a possible source for ideas and can be googled online.

Solid colors are preferable, but if you really wish to include a pattern, choose carefully and use it sparingly. A smaller pattern on a little girl’s dress may be very cute for a family of three; e.g., parents and child. Viewers’ eyes will likely focus on the little girl first, then on the parents. Consider using the colors in the dress as the basis for the other colors in the photo. For very large families, it may be preferable to have no individual family member stand out.

In deciding on colors, you may want to first decide on warm-toned combinations (browns) or cool-toned combinations (greys/blacks). Which tones will blend best with the location of your photography session and with the season?  Also consider how your images will be used… for holiday cards? …displayed in a particular room? Will the clothing colors clash with the décor in that particular room?

Once you’ve decided on some colors, start with one person in your group (perhaps the hardest person to please) and choose clothing. Then move on from there. Once you have a handle on clothing, feel free to select a few props (if desired). Your family might enjoy doing a particular activity together. If so, think of bringing along props to show your family’s personality.

Brothers

Siblings

High School Seniors

High school seniors should have fun with the session. Certainly consider the above suggestions, but don’t worry too much. Let your senior’s personality shine!

High School Senior

Extra outfits are welcome. Consider the amount of time that you want to spend changing clothes. Is it an hour-long photo shoot? How much of that hour do you want to devote to photography and how much to changing clothes?

Also consider the location. Are changing facilities available? How clean are the facilities? Will you need to change in a vehicle? How much room will you have in that vehicle? If a full change of clothing is out of the question, consider starting with a few basic pieces, then adding layers and accessories to create multiple looks. A complete change of clothing may not be necessary.

Bring personal items to express yourself. Items that are a part of a hobby, sports equipment, uniforms, musical instruments or other props are all welcome.

High School Senior

Young Children

Comfort is even more important with a young child. Clothing should flow or move with the child. It should fit well. Avoid clothing that has “room to grow”. You don’t want children pulling on clothing or scratching themselves. If possible, let them help select the clothing. Perhaps select a few outfits that are acceptable to you. Then, let your child select among those outfits.

Again, try to avoid logos, graphics, characters and labels. For the babies and toddlers, avoid outfits that bunch up around the face. Props and heirloom items are welcome. These items include: a favorite stuffed animal, a favorite bow or barrette, a baseball cap, mommy or daddy’s hat or scarf, a favorite blanket, boots, a favorite book, etc. In fact, if your child goes everywhere in a favorite pair of boots or in a superhero’s cape, consider incorporating it into their outfit. Your photographs will serve as memory of this particular moment in your child’s life. Why not capture their true personality from this time period?

Young Children

A few thoughts as you prepare for your session…

Whether you plan to order prints, digital images or some combination, think about how you will use your images. Will you be using them for holiday cards? Will you be creating gifts for family members, or using images in collages? Will you be enlarging images and framing them? Would you like to see black & white or sepia options? Do you have any particular size constraints in mind? Whatever your plans may be, discuss your plans with your photographer. It may help with planning your session, with post-processing and ensuring that you get keepsake images to last a lifetime.

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When I saw the article, I wondered... will I be asked to take out my two heaviest lenses and use them for bicep curls? Carrying around photography equipment can be physically exhausting. As it turned out, that was not what Digital Photography School had in mind, in posting Jim Harmer's "3 Workouts to improve Your Photography".

The article scrolled across my screen at just the right time, in that I found myself needing to step back from photography for awhile this past year. I'm trying to get back into it, but admit that I'm feeling a bit blocked creatively. The dPS article was just the incentive I needed to begin "working out" my skills again. What better place to start than with two exercises mentioned in Harmer's article.

1. One Shot

I am definitely guilty of the bad habit that this exercise is designed to correct - that of snapping and sharing too many photos from a shoot! The digital age has created photographers who take "tens of thousands of pictures over the course of a year". Whether professionals or hobbyists, the photos may be interesting in our own minds, but it can be difficult to judge whether they will be interesting to others. It is certainly rare to capture that one image that truly stands out from the crowd. In this exercise, Harmer directs the photographer to "go out and shoot, but do not return home with more than one photo. Click the shutter more times, yes, but delete each photo if it is not perfect".

So, that's what I attempted. I spent an afternoon at the Missouri Botanical Gardens in St. Louis, MO, trying to find that one photo. In hindsight, amazing flower photographs are fairly common on the Internet. It can be difficult to capture one that truly stands out from the crowd. Then again, flowers always brighten my day. I'm not sure if it "stands out", but I enjoyed trying...

One Shot... taken at the Missouri Botanical Garden, in St. Louis, MO

2. Ten Shots, One Subject

The goal of the second exercise is almost the exact opposite of the first - choose one subject, but capture ten unique images of that subject. While the first exercise forced me to evaluate my images more critically, the second exercise challenged my creativity. For my subject, I chose "Still Point", a sculpture by Ruth Keller Schweiss and dedicated to Dance St. Louis.

Still Point #1... in front of the Ritz-Carlton, Clayton, MO

The sculpture stands in the middle of a fountain, in front of the Ritz-Carlton, in Clayton, MO. 

Still Point #2The Fountain

I enjoyed the effect that the fountain had on the ballerinas. The title may be "Still Life", but it felt as if they were dancing.

Still Point #3Angles

The movement of the water frequently hid the ballerinas. As I moved around the fountain, I looked for perspectives where the water complemented and highlighted the ballerinas' faces. The angled streams of water captured my attention above.

Still Point #4... from the left

I took close-ups from the left (above) and from the right (below). The water from the fountain occasionally stopped, and in those moments, I was able to stand closer (below).

Still Life #5...from the right

Still Point #6... changing perspective

I noticed the trees and decided to use them in the background for another perspective (above).

Still Point #7... another perspective

As the water rose once more, I stepped back and noticed a different variety of tree to the left (above).

Still Life #8... another background, another perspective

I began looking for unique backgrounds and found the contrasting colors of the trees and bricks (above) appealing.

Still Point #9... from below

Wide angles would provide my last two perspectives. First, I stepped back and positioned myself at the bottom of the stairs leading up to the sculpture. I decided to include the top stair in the bottom of the composition. I admit, this is my least favorite of the images. Initially, I didn't care for the look at all. Then, it occurred to me that this was the most unique of the images. I felt that it conveyed a feeling of peeking in on the ballerinas. Although it remains my least favorite image, I decided it was worthy of the exercise.

Still Life #10Rainbow Through the Center

Finally, the water came on as I looked for one last perspective. I walked to the right and spotted a small rainbow dancing through the center of the fountain. It seemed a fitting end to the exercise.

It was our last day in Palm Springs. We had seen the town’s swanky side and gotten in touch with nature. For our last day, we decided to look for something off the beaten path. I had read about a unique metal sculpture collection in the middle of the desert. It was an hour and a half’s drive away. It seemed like it was in the middle of nowhere! Would it would be worth the drive? We decided to give it a try. We were headed toward Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.

Galleta MeadowsAnza-Borrego Desert State Park is the perfect day trip for the Palm Springs or San Diego traveler looking for an "off the beaten path" adventure. What is it?
In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector). He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road. It's an eerie site in the middle of the desert.

What is the story behind these unique sculptures? In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. 

Galleta MeadowsAnza-Borrego Desert State Park is the perfect day trip for the Palm Springs or San Diego traveler looking for an "off the beaten path" adventure. What is it?
In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector). He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road. It's an eerie site in the middle of the desert.

He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector).

Native AmericanGalleta Meadows

Gold ProspectorGalleta Meadows

The largest sculpture was a 350-foot sea serpent with a dragon’s head and a rattlesnake tail. This sculpture alone cost $40,000 to build, took four months to create and another three months to erect.

The SerpentGalleta Meadows

He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road.

Galleta MeadowsAnza-Borrego Desert State Park is the perfect day trip for the Palm Springs or San Diego traveler looking for an "off the beaten path" adventure. What is it?
In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector). He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road. It's an eerie site in the middle of the desert.

It was an eerie sight, driving through the desert and spotting huge dinosaurs and other creatures in the distance.

Galleta MeadowsAnza-Borrego Desert State Park is the perfect day trip for the Palm Springs or San Diego traveler looking for an "off the beaten path" adventure. What is it?
In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector). He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road. It's an eerie site in the middle of the desert.

Galleta MeadowsAnza-Borrego Desert State Park is the perfect day trip for the Palm Springs or San Diego traveler looking for an "off the beaten path" adventure. What is it?
In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector). He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road. It's an eerie site in the middle of the desert.

We found ourselves competing with each other to be the first to spot a new creature.

Galleta MeadowsAnza-Borrego Desert State Park is the perfect day trip for the Palm Springs or San Diego traveler looking for an "off the beaten path" adventure. What is it?
In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector). He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road. It's an eerie site in the middle of the desert.

When we spotted new sculptures from the paved road, we looked for dirt paths leading toward the sculptures. Signs indicated that the roads and land were private property, but that visitors were welcome to explore for close-up views and photo ops. We felt like we were on a scavenger hunt!

Galleta MeadowsAnza-Borrego Desert State Park is the perfect day trip for the Palm Springs or San Diego traveler looking for an "off the beaten path" adventure. What is it?
In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector). He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road. It's an eerie site in the middle of the desert.

Galleta MeadowsAnza-Borrego Desert State Park is the perfect day trip for the Palm Springs or San Diego traveler looking for an "off the beaten path" adventure. What is it?
In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector). He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road. It's an eerie site in the middle of the desert.

Galleta MeadowsAnza-Borrego Desert State Park is the perfect day trip for the Palm Springs or San Diego traveler looking for an "off the beaten path" adventure. What is it?
In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector). He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road. It's an eerie site in the middle of the desert.

We decided our afternoon adventure was well worth the drive!

Then again, I neglected to mention our morning adventure. Earlier in the week, we had caught a glimpse of the Salton Sea. From a distance, it looked scenic, but we had read that it was an environmental disaster. The road to Anza-Borrega followed the Salton Sea on its western side. We debated whether we wanted to stop and take a look. We decided a brief visit might be worth it, just to satisfy our curiosity. Unfortunately, “brief” did not describe our visit.

First, what is the Salton Sea?

Salton SeaThe Salton Sea, in southern California, is a lake, 332 feet below sea level, at the lowest point of the Salton Sink in the Colorado Desert. It averages 15 by 25 miles wide and is the largest lake in California. Originally, the Salton Sink was a part of the Gulf of California, with the Colorado River flowing into it. Sometimes gulf waters flowed inland to meet the river, depositing salt and sediment. The resulting lake filled the valley and was full of wildlife.

In the late 1800s, the California Development Company wanted to turn the valley into an agricultural empire. Requiring water to irrigate, they decided to use the Colorado River. Unfortunately, the CDC did not plan for irrigation runoff, silt build-up or high water levels. In the early 1900s, unusually wet weather caused the river to break through a poorly constructed canal. The river landed in the low spot of the Salton Sink and 350,000 acres flooded, permanently changing the landscape. Farming communities were destroyed.

The area was still full of wildlife and an important migratory stop for more than 400 species of birds. Resorts began popping up by the 1950s. The Salton Sea State Recreation Area remained popular with tourists for a couple of decades. By the 1970s, recurring floods revealed the man-made catastrophe. The Salton Sea was fed by three rivers, but had no outlet for its water other than evaporation. The sea’s salinity was rising and it was threatening wildlife. Fish were dying out. Fewer fish meant less food for birds. Today, only tilapia and desert pupfish are able to reproduce. Other fish continue to die. Local groups have been trying to save the Salton Sea, but state budget constraints have left efforts unfunded.

It is a lake, 332 feet below sea level, at the lowest point of the Salton Sink in the Colorado Desert. It averages 15 by 25 miles wide and is the largest lake in California. Originally, the Salton Sink was a part of the Gulf of California, with the Colorado River flowing into it. Sometimes gulf waters flowed inland to meet the river, depositing salt and sediment. The resulting lake filled the valley and was full of wildlife.

In the late 1800s, the California Development Company wanted to turn the valley into an agricultural empire. Requiring water to irrigate, they decided to use the Colorado River. Unfortunately, the CDC did not plan for irrigation runoff, silt build-up or high water levels. In the early 1900s, unusually wet weather caused the river to break through a poorly constructed canal. The river landed in the low spot of the Salton Sink and 350,000 acres flooded, permanently changing the landscape. Farming communities were destroyed.

The area was still full of wildlife and an important migratory stop for more than 400 species of birds. Resorts began popping up by the 1950s. The Salton Sea State Recreation Area remained popular with tourists for a couple of decades. By the 1970s, recurring floods revealed the man-made catastrophe. The Salton Sea was fed by three rivers, but had no outlet for its water other than evaporation. The sea’s salinity was rising and it was threatening wildlife. Fish were dying out. Fewer fish meant less food for birds. Today, only tilapia and desert pupfish are able to reproduce. Other fish continue to die. Local groups have been trying to save the Salton Sea, but state budget constraints have left efforts unfunded.

We drove slightly out of our way - to the northeast side of the Salton Sea - to stop at the Visitors Center and gain a better understanding of what happened environmentally. We first noticed the huge parking lots, with extensive picnic grounds and hook-ups for RV campers. They were largely deserted.

Picnic area and parking lotSalton Sea

We saw only a few random visitors like ourselves. It did not take long to understand why. The minute we opened the car doors, we noticed a sulfurous odor. We then noticed birds flocking at the shoreline.

Salton SeaThe Salton Sea, in southern California, is a lake, 332 feet below sea level, at the lowest point of the Salton Sink in the Colorado Desert. It averages 15 by 25 miles wide and is the largest lake in California. Originally, the Salton Sink was a part of the Gulf of California, with the Colorado River flowing into it. Sometimes gulf waters flowed inland to meet the river, depositing salt and sediment. The resulting lake filled the valley and was full of wildlife.

In the late 1800s, the California Development Company wanted to turn the valley into an agricultural empire. Requiring water to irrigate, they decided to use the Colorado River. Unfortunately, the CDC did not plan for irrigation runoff, silt build-up or high water levels. In the early 1900s, unusually wet weather caused the river to break through a poorly constructed canal. The river landed in the low spot of the Salton Sink and 350,000 acres flooded, permanently changing the landscape. Farming communities were destroyed.

The area was still full of wildlife and an important migratory stop for more than 400 species of birds. Resorts began popping up by the 1950s. The Salton Sea State Recreation Area remained popular with tourists for a couple of decades. By the 1970s, recurring floods revealed the man-made catastrophe. The Salton Sea was fed by three rivers, but had no outlet for its water other than evaporation. The sea’s salinity was rising and it was threatening wildlife. Fish were dying out. Fewer fish meant less food for birds. Today, only tilapia and desert pupfish are able to reproduce. Other fish continue to die. Local groups have been trying to save the Salton Sea, but state budget constraints have left efforts unfunded.

We decided to investigate and found dead fish covering the sand. 

Salton SeaThe Salton Sea, in southern California, is a lake, 332 feet below sea level, at the lowest point of the Salton Sink in the Colorado Desert. It averages 15 by 25 miles wide and is the largest lake in California. Originally, the Salton Sink was a part of the Gulf of California, with the Colorado River flowing into it. Sometimes gulf waters flowed inland to meet the river, depositing salt and sediment. The resulting lake filled the valley and was full of wildlife.

In the late 1800s, the California Development Company wanted to turn the valley into an agricultural empire. Requiring water to irrigate, they decided to use the Colorado River. Unfortunately, the CDC did not plan for irrigation runoff, silt build-up or high water levels. In the early 1900s, unusually wet weather caused the river to break through a poorly constructed canal. The river landed in the low spot of the Salton Sink and 350,000 acres flooded, permanently changing the landscape. Farming communities were destroyed.

The area was still full of wildlife and an important migratory stop for more than 400 species of birds. Resorts began popping up by the 1950s. The Salton Sea State Recreation Area remained popular with tourists for a couple of decades. By the 1970s, recurring floods revealed the man-made catastrophe. The Salton Sea was fed by three rivers, but had no outlet for its water other than evaporation. The sea’s salinity was rising and it was threatening wildlife. Fish were dying out. Fewer fish meant less food for birds. Today, only tilapia and desert pupfish are able to reproduce. Other fish continue to die. Local groups have been trying to save the Salton Sea, but state budget constraints have left efforts unfunded.

Despite the horrible odor, we saw a couple of people fishing on the point that reaches out into the sea.

Near the water, the sand had formed into strange, dry mounds. It looked more like cracked concrete than sand.

Salton SeaThe Salton Sea, in southern California, is a lake, 332 feet below sea level, at the lowest point of the Salton Sink in the Colorado Desert. It averages 15 by 25 miles wide and is the largest lake in California. Originally, the Salton Sink was a part of the Gulf of California, with the Colorado River flowing into it. Sometimes gulf waters flowed inland to meet the river, depositing salt and sediment. The resulting lake filled the valley and was full of wildlife.

In the late 1800s, the California Development Company wanted to turn the valley into an agricultural empire. Requiring water to irrigate, they decided to use the Colorado River. Unfortunately, the CDC did not plan for irrigation runoff, silt build-up or high water levels. In the early 1900s, unusually wet weather caused the river to break through a poorly constructed canal. The river landed in the low spot of the Salton Sink and 350,000 acres flooded, permanently changing the landscape. Farming communities were destroyed.

The area was still full of wildlife and an important migratory stop for more than 400 species of birds. Resorts began popping up by the 1950s. The Salton Sea State Recreation Area remained popular with tourists for a couple of decades. By the 1970s, recurring floods revealed the man-made catastrophe. The Salton Sea was fed by three rivers, but had no outlet for its water other than evaporation. The sea’s salinity was rising and it was threatening wildlife. Fish were dying out. Fewer fish meant less food for birds. Today, only tilapia and desert pupfish are able to reproduce. Other fish continue to die. Local groups have been trying to save the Salton Sea, but state budget constraints have left efforts unfunded.

Salton SeaThe Salton Sea, in southern California, is a lake, 332 feet below sea level, at the lowest point of the Salton Sink in the Colorado Desert. It averages 15 by 25 miles wide and is the largest lake in California. Originally, the Salton Sink was a part of the Gulf of California, with the Colorado River flowing into it. Sometimes gulf waters flowed inland to meet the river, depositing salt and sediment. The resulting lake filled the valley and was full of wildlife.

In the late 1800s, the California Development Company wanted to turn the valley into an agricultural empire. Requiring water to irrigate, they decided to use the Colorado River. Unfortunately, the CDC did not plan for irrigation runoff, silt build-up or high water levels. In the early 1900s, unusually wet weather caused the river to break through a poorly constructed canal. The river landed in the low spot of the Salton Sink and 350,000 acres flooded, permanently changing the landscape. Farming communities were destroyed.

The area was still full of wildlife and an important migratory stop for more than 400 species of birds. Resorts began popping up by the 1950s. The Salton Sea State Recreation Area remained popular with tourists for a couple of decades. By the 1970s, recurring floods revealed the man-made catastrophe. The Salton Sea was fed by three rivers, but had no outlet for its water other than evaporation. The sea’s salinity was rising and it was threatening wildlife. Fish were dying out. Fewer fish meant less food for birds. Today, only tilapia and desert pupfish are able to reproduce. Other fish continue to die. Local groups have been trying to save the Salton Sea, but state budget constraints have left efforts unfunded.

We entered the Visitors Center and briefly spoke with a park ranger. We mentioned our plans to drive south along the western side of the sea to reach Anza-Borrego. He then offered a list of 10 places of interest on the eastern side of the sea (e.g., mud pots, bat caves, etc) and told us that the distance to Anza-Borrego (driving all the way around the sea) would be about the same. Supposedly, one could see the 10 sites in about an hour and there was nothing similar on the western side of the sea. The drive would be more interesting. It was early and we had all day. We decided, why not?

The decision turned out to be a huge mistake! We tried to follow directions to a couple of places on the list and found that they were vague or difficult to follow. A couple of times, they led us to closed roads with detour signs, in towns where four out of five buildings were boarded-up and abandoned. We realized that we were seeing yet another side of the desert - that of desolate wasteland! We wanted out, but we had driven too far to turn around by this point. Our only choice was to keep driving around the southern edge of the Salton Sea. We had to drive way south of the sea and realized we were only 20 miles from the Mexican border! After driving through a couple of border patrols and stopping for lunch, we finally found the road that led west toward Anza-Borrego. 

The sites gradually changed. At one point, we passed through a brief dust storm.

Driving Away from the Salton Sea

It caught us off guard, but it added a bit of excitement to the day. The dust disappeared and the mountains grew closer.

En Route to Anza-BorregoAnza-Borrego Desert State Park is the perfect day trip for the Palm Springs or San Diego traveler looking for an "off the beaten path" adventure. What is it?
In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector). He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road. It's an eerie site in the middle of the desert.

The day held promise after all.

Anza-Borrego Desert State ParkAnza-Borrego Desert State Park is the perfect day trip for the Palm Springs or San Diego traveler looking for an "off the beaten path" adventure. What is it?
In 2008, the late Dennis Avery (of Avery Labels) had the idea to create a collection of life-sized metal sculptures of prehistoric creatures that lived in the desert millions of years ago. He wanted to erect the sculptures on his Galleta Meadows Estate in Borrego Springs, surrounded by Anza-Borrego park. He commissioned artist/welder Ricardo Breceda of Perris, California to create the steel welded sculptures. By the time Breceda finished, the "prehistoric idea" was expanded upon to include more recent animals, a few popular dinosaurs and even a few human figures that represented life in the recent past (a Spanish padre, a native American and a gold prospector). He created a total of 129 sculptures and scattered them throughout the desert estate, along Borrego Springs Road. It's an eerie site in the middle of the desert.

In the end, we made it to Anza-Borrego, saw Galleta Meadows and had a wonderful afternoon! We drove back to Palm Springs along the western side of the Salton Sea. Honestly, that was more scenic than the eastern side and was shorter. We felt the park ranger had guided us poorly.

The mountains of Anza-Borrego

Western Side of the Salton SeaThe sea is beyond the palm trees.

We absolutely loved our week in Palm Springs and recommend all of the activities, EXCEPT for a trek around the eastern side of the Salton Sea.

Click for more images of the Galleta Meadows sculptures. Or, for more photography from the entire week, click Palm Springs. Thanks for following our week-long adventures in Palm Springs! 

Joshua Tree National ParkJoshua Tree National Park is located in southern California, where the higher, cooler Colorado Desert (a part of the larger Sonoran Desert) and the lower, hotter Mojave Desert meet. With boundaries that stretch 60 miles, east to west, and 30 miles, north to south, the park contains hundreds of miles of hiking trails, diverse plants and animals, varying terrain with weather-sculpted rocks and canyons, and vast, arid land as far as the eye can see. For more information, click: http://www.joshuatree.org

I thought I knew the desert. After all, I had driven through New Mexico and Arizona on previous trips. In both states, I remember being fascinated with the changes in topography and flora as we drove from Santa Fe to Taos in New Mexico, and from Phoenix to Sedona to Flagstaff, then on to the Grand Canyon in Arizona. Yet, it still surprised me to find such uniquely different landscape in and around the Coachella Valley.

My first view came from the plane. Palm Springs is surrounded by mountains, and those mountains are absolutely glorious!  Our flight was due to arrive early in the afternoon, but as luck would have it, we met an obstacle – Air Force One! Yes, President Obama had been in Palm Springs for the Southeast Asia Treaty Organization Summit. Supreme Court Justice Antonin Scalia had also recently passed away. The President was scheduled to leave at about the same time that we were scheduled to arrive. Instead, he decided to give a press conference to address both topics. Our flight was diverted to Ontario, California, where we spent the afternoon in an unoccupied wing of the airport listening to Obama’s speech on a television. Although the delay was disappointing, we were rewarded with incredible views of the intense mountainous landscape on the 17-minute flights between airports. The late afternoon sun served to intensify the colors. It was a spectacular introduction to Palm Springs for our week-long vacation!

Southern California from the PlaneiPhone image

Southern California from the PlaneiPhone image

Southern California from the PlaneiPhone image

Perhaps the mountainous scenes inspired us. On our first full day in Palm Springs, we decided to visit Mount San Jacinto for our first hike of the week. We had learned about the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway and decided to ride it to the top of the mountain. About 6 miles from downtown Palm Springs, this 360-degree tramway begins at an elevation of 2,643 feet and, after a 10-minute ride, transports visitors to an elevation of 8,516 feet. At the top, one finds 30-degree cooler temperatures, snow-covered alpine trails (during Winter months) and incredible views of the desert valley below. The state park offers 54 miles of hiking trails, campgrounds, winter activities during the snow season, two restaurants and more. We enjoyed our mid-day hike in the snow before heading back down to the valley.

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway...to the top of Mt San Jacinto

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway...to the top of Mt San Jacinto

Mount San Jacinto State Park

Mount San Jacinto State Park

Mount San Jacinto State Park

Mount San Jacinto State Park

Mount San Jacinto State Park

Where would we hike next? Well, a visit to Palm Springs is just not complete without a visit to Joshua Tree National Park, where the higher, cooler Colorado Desert (a part of the larger Sonoran Desert) and the lower, hotter Mojave Desert meet. With boundaries that stretch 60 miles east to west, and 30 miles north to south, the park contains hundreds of miles of hiking trails, diverse plants and animals, varying terrain with weather-sculpted rocks and canyons, and vast, arid land as far as the eye can see.

We entered the park via I-10, at the Cottonwood Visitors Center, on the southeastern side of the park. We drove quite awhile before seeing Joshua Trees or any of the more popular points of interest and hiking trails. Some might prefer entering the park through one of the northern entry points, where the Joshua Trees are more plentiful. We were happy to have seen the vast open spaces and “washes” of the low desert, however. After about 20 miles, we reached our first anticipated stop, the Cholla Cactus Garden. We were stunned at our first site of this “garden” in the middle of the desert. Had someone marked off boundaries and planted a forest of cacti within? No, we learned that the garden is naturally occurring. Summer cloudbursts and winter rains carry runoff water from the higher desert ranges, down the alluvial fans, and into the lower elevations. This is one of the few areas in the lower elevations containing the loose gravel and rock crevices required for prolific growth of this species of cactus. The “teddy-bear” chollas, as they are nicknamed, are well worth seeing.

Cholla Cactus Garden

We continued driving with brief stops at interesting viewing areas, until we reached our next planned site, Arch Rock. We enjoyed the trail to this 25-feet long, 15-feet high granite rock. It was an easy hike, although it required a bit of climbing among boulders for the best viewing angle.

Arch RockJoshua Tree National Park is located in southern California, where the higher, cooler Colorado Desert (a part of the larger Sonoran Desert) and the lower, hotter Mojave Desert meet. With boundaries that stretch 60 miles, east to west, and 30 miles, north to south, the park contains hundreds of miles of hiking trails, diverse plants and animals, varying terrain with weather-sculpted rocks and canyons, and vast, arid land as far as the eye can see. For more information, click: http://www.joshuatree.org

Driving further, we saw interesting sites such as Skull Rock and Cap Rock (named for their shapes). Both were interesting in appearance. We had planned to stop, but kept driving, as they were easily seen from the road and crowded with tourists.

We continued driving to Keys View, a site with incredible panoramic views of mountain ranges, the Coachella Valley and the San Andreas Fault. The area is a part of the great Salton Trough that extends nearly 200 miles from San Gorgonio Pass to the Sea of Cortez. The Mexican nickname for the trough translates to “The Hollow of God’s Hand”.

Keys View

Close Up at Keys View

The highlight of our Joshua Tree visit was the Hidden Valley Nature Trail. This one-mile long loop trail takes visitors between narrow boulders into a pocket valley surrounded by walls of granite. Legend says that this was once a secret corral for stolen horses and cattle (late 1800s, early 1900s). Whether fact or fiction, the tales are easy to imagine. Today, one sees both novice and expert climbers training on the large granite outcrops in the area.

Hidden ValleyHiking through the boulders into the valley

Hidden Valley

Hidden Valley

Hidden Valley

Hidden Valley

Hidden ValleyNote the rock climbers in the upper right corner.

As we continued to drive through the park, we noticed that the forests of Joshua Trees were now thick and plentiful. We enjoyed the view as we headed toward the northwestern exit, at the Joshua Tree Visitor Center. While the northern visitor centers are closer to the more popular tourist sites in the park, we were happy to have entered the park from the southern-most visitor center. We enjoyed seeing the differences in topography between the lower and higher desert regions. Driving south to northwest also seemed ideal, as we constantly had the mountains in our view. We then took route 62 back to our hotel.

Joshua Tree ForestNorthwestern area of the park

We had yet to see a Palm Oasis in the desert. So, on another day, we visited the Coachella Valley Preserve, and hiked its McCallum trail. This loop trail takes hikers across the San Andreas fault zone and through a desert wash. The trail begins and ends at the Thousand Palms Oasis and loops at the McCallum Pond and Oasis. The trees were enormous. I felt as if I were in a scene from Jurassic Park!

Fan Palm Oasis...along McCallum Trail

Inside a Palm OasisJurassic-sized palm trees

McCallum TrailThe desert trail between the oases

McCallum Pond and Oasis

We were curious about the formation of the springs in these oases, so I did a bit of research. Ponds and springs in desert oases are formed by natural earthquake seeps. The ground water from rainfall and snowmelt slopes downward from the mountains, beneath the alluvial fans. Movement from a side-slipping earthquake fault, such as the San Andreas fault, grinds rock into less permeable zones of clay, creating barriers to the flow of water. When the water meets an impermeable barrier underground, it rises to form springs, resulting in these life-giving oases. Unfortunately, population growth and drying weather patterns of recent years have caused a lowering of the water tables. In some areas, water is piped in to keep the oases alive.

I wondered if we would tire of the same scenery, visiting so many desert parks in one week. So far, that was not the case. Each park had unique characteristics and scenery. So, we continued on to the next park on our list, the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation, also known as Indian Canyons. We were not disappointed.

Agua Caliente Indian Reservation

Our hiking destination on the reservation was Palm Canyon, a trail that extends 15 miles along a meandering oasis spring, sheltered by the immense California Fan Palms.  We hiked down a cliff path to arrive at the trail and wondered, once again, if this was naturally occurring. It felt too perfect, as if it belonged in one of Palm Springs' landscaped resorts. As we hiked, we saw the fallen palm fronds and trunks and knew that it was natural. In addition to hikers, we saw people with picnic lunches, horseback riders and those simply relaxing. We saw signs about rattlesnake habitats, but were very happy to see no rattlesnakes!

Agua Caliente Indian Reservation

Agua Caliente Indian ReservationNotice the size of the people in the canyon.

Agua Caliente Indian Reservation

Palm Canyon TrailAgua Caliente Indian Reservation

The trailAgua Caliente Indian Reservation

The trailAgua Caliente Indian Reservation

Agua Caliente Indian Reservation

It was a full week in Palm Springs, but we still had one day left. We decided to save our “off the beaten path” adventures for our last day in Palm Springs. Follow me on Twitter @aewarfield, or “like” my Anne Warfield Photography Facebook page to find Part III of our February in Palm Springs. Or, click Palm Springs for more photos.

Palm Springs

I admit, I initially wondered if we would find enough activities to fill an entire week. We did some research prior to booking. No worries! We found so much to do, that I’ve decided to divide this blog into three parts:

I – Swanky Palm Springs

II – Hiking and Nature

III – Off the Beaten Path

Today is about Swanky Palm Springs. Look for Parts II and III later this week. Follow me on Twitter @aewarfield, or “like” Anne Warfield Photography on Facebook to learn when they are published.

Part I – “Swanky” Palm Springs

It happened to be Modernism Week, a week celebrating Palm Springs' architecture. As we drove through the city, we noticed more than the architecture. We noticed the street names… Frank Sinatra Drive, Bob Hope Drive, Jack Benny Road, Dinah Shore Drive, Gerald Ford Drive, Gene Autry Trail. We looked into the events of Modernism Week and found the word “swanky” thrown around quite a bit… the “swanky” south end… that “swanky” and retro hotel… a “swanky” and exclusive party. Who still uses the word "swanky" anyway, we asked? Just for fun, we began using it whenever we spotted something we liked. We were beginning to enjoy those "Sinatra era" vibes.

Modernist ArchitectureDowntown Palm Springs

Modernist ArchitecturePalm Springs, CA

Modernist ArchitecturePalm Springs, CA

Modernist ArchitectureDowntown Palm Springs

How did Palm Springs become so “swanky”? As early as the 1920s, the city became known as “Hollywood’s Playground”.  Hollywood studios required their actors to remain within a two-hour drive of the studios while under contract. Those actors needed to be available for last-minute film and photo shoots. That made Palm Springs the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of show biz.

Celebrities continued to flock to the “Playground” throughout the mid-century, building hideaways in the Modernist Architecture style. Desert Modernism focused on glass, clean lines and the use of both indoor and outdoor spaces that highlighted the beauty of the Coachella Valley and surrounding mountains. A lifestyle of simple elegance and informality was born.

Desert Modernism remains in abundance in the city and is one of the draws for visitors. The city offers guided architecture and celebrity house tours. Visitors can also pick up a map at the Visitor’s Center and find a few landmarks on their own, as we did. Several landmarks can be found while shopping and dining along Palm Canyon Drive in Downtown Palm Springs. I was pleased to find unique and affordable boutiques in this area. My husband was pleased to find benches shaded by huge palm trees, where he could check in at the office while I shopped!

Mountain View...along Palm Canyon Drive

The Cork 'n BottleA Palm Springs Landmark in Modernist Architecture

Shopping districtDowntown Palm Springs

We learned that the downtown shopping district cordons off several blocks every Thursday, between 4-8pm, for Villagefest, a weekly street fair of artists, entertainers, food vendors and a farmer’s market. Restaurants, stores and galleries open to visitors as well. We decided to check it out and were amazed at the crowds for an event that occurs EVERY Thursday of the year. I should caution, if you don’t like crowds, the event may not be for you. We walked through once for the experience, but found the restaurants a block or two away much more relaxing!

If you like art, the Palm Springs Art Museum is only a couple of blocks away. Visit during Villagefest hours and receive free admittance. The building is an example of the modernist architectural design and is set at the base of Mount San Jacinto. We particularly enjoyed the pop art collections on the third floor, the Andy Warhol collection on the lower level and the outdoor sculpture gardens.

Palm Springs Art MuseumPop Art

Palm Springs Art Museum

Palm Springs Art MuseumOutdoor Sculpture Garden

Art, shopping and restaurants are in abundance throughout Palm Springs, not just downtown. Visit Palm Desert for the upscale shopping district and restaurants. We dined in the area one evening and enjoyed a walk along the pleasant and palm tree-lit boulevard. Casual restaurants are plentiful throughout the city.  Our favorites were Pueblo Viejo Grill in Indio and Elmer’s for breakfast.

Palm Springs, California

Palm Tree LightsPalm Desert

Backstreet Art District

Elmer'sThe place for breakfast!

It is difficult to imagine a hotel or resort in Palm Springs without a spectacular view. Just about everywhere we drove,  we found roads lined with palm trees, leading our eyes to the distant (or not-so-distant) mountains.  Located in the Coachella Valley, the city is sheltered by the San Bernardino Mountains to the north, the San Jacinto Mountains to the west and the Little San Bernardino Mountains to the east.  

Driving Around Palm SpringsPalm tree lined roads

One of my favorite views was that while traveling through San Gorgonio Pass of the San Bernardino Mountains. The Pass is home to an impressive windmill farm, with more than 4000 windmills. The farm provides enough energy to power Palm Springs and the entire Coachella Valley. I don't often take videos, but driving among the windmills seemed to be the perfect time to give it a try.

Windmill Farm

We enjoyed an afternoon of golf at our hotel and relaxed at the pool for an hour or so at the end of each day. The views were gorgeous!

Desert SpringsSeen at the JW Marriott resort of Desert Springs; Palm Springs, California

Desert Springs Golf

Desert SpringsSeen at the JW Marriott resort of Desert Springs; Palm Springs, California

As much as we enjoyed the city of Palm Springs, we were drawn to the desert and mountains. Join me for Parts II and III of our Palm Springs adventure to learn about the parks and outdoor experiences in the area. Again, look for the links to Parts II and III on Twitter @aewarfield, and on Facebook –  Anne Warfield Photography later this week. For more travel photography, click: Palm Springs.

Having a tropical climate year round, most Costa Ricans recognize only two seasons; the rainy/green season from May to November and the dry season from December to April. We arrived just at the beginning of the dry season. We were a little concerned that the rain might linger, but no worries - not in Guanacaste. Everything was still green. The children had just ended their school year. We were told that the tourists typically begin arriving in mid-December. So, our timing was perfect. My friends and I experienced Costa Rica in its glory, without the crowds!

Why did we choose Costa Rica? The trip was the result of a winning bid at a local high school fundraiser. The donated item was one week at a condo in Bougainvillea, one of five condo communities of Reserva Conchal, in the Guanacaste region.

Bougainvillea Above Playa ConchalPlaya Conchal is located along the Gold Coast, in the north of the Guanacaste Province of Costa Rica.

The Condo... bottom left

Bougainvillea CondosOne of five condo communities within Reserva Conchal

Guanacaste is renowned for its beaches and is a popular destination for tourists. We had access to the beautiful Playa Conchal, a relatively wide and long sandy beach, bordered by trees, with views of the mountains. We enjoyed having the option of lounging under shaded trees or in the sun. 

Playa ConchalPlaya Conchal is located along the Gold Coast, in the north of the Guanacaste Province of Costa Rica.

Playa ConchalPlaya Conchal is located along the Gold Coast, in the north of the Guanacaste Province of Costa Rica.

Playtime at Playa Conchal

Costa Rica Sunset... at Playa Conchal, Guanacaste Province, Westin resort

The main Reserva Conchal pool was steps away, but we also had access to a smaller infinity pool for Bougainvillea residents. 

Infinity PoolSmaller pool near the condo

Bougainvillea Infinity PoolPlaya Conchal is located along the Gold Coast, in the north of the Guanacaste Province of Costa Rica.

Reserva Conchal is located next to the Westin Playa Conchal. Our condo overlooked the Westin's golf course. As one might expect, the grounds, landscaping and views were gorgeous! We were able to take a golf cart one day and explore the grounds of both properties more closely. 

Westin Playa Conchal Golf Cart Tour... at the Westin Playa Conchal, Guanacaste Province, Costa Rica

Westin Playa Conchal Golf Cart Tour... at the Westin Playa Conchal, Guanacaste Province, Costa Rica

Westin Golf Course View... at the Westin Playa Conchal, Guanacaste Province, Costa Rica

Iguana... at the Westin Playa Conchal

Westin Playa Conchal Golf Cart Tour... at the Westin Playa Conchal, Guanacaste Province, Costa Rica

As much as we enjoyed the resort, my friends and I managed to venture away from the resort as well. It was an easy walk along the beach to the small town of Brasilito, where we found authentic local food and great ocean views.

Brasilito, Iphone photo

Taking in the SceneryiPhone photo

We were also about a 25 minute drive from the town of Tamarindo, the place to go for shopping and beachside restaurants. We arrived at lunch time and learned that happy hour had already begun! We found a nice outdoor restaurant located right on the beach. We enjoyed fresh seafood (and happy hour drinks) while watching surfers and listening to the ocean waves crash into the beach.

Tamarindo BeachTamarindo is a quiet fishing village in the northern area of the Guanacaste Province in Costa Rica. The beaches here are known for strong surf and great waves.

Tamarindo BeachTamarindo is a quiet fishing village in the northern area of the Guanacaste Province in Costa Rica. The beaches here are known for strong surf and great waves.

Happy Hour!iPhone photo

We hesitated to leave, but it was time to shop...

Tamarindo ShoppingTamarindo is a quiet fishing village in the northern area of the Guanacaste Province in Costa Rica.

Tamarindo ShoppingTamarindo is a quiet fishing village in the northern area of the Guanacaste Province in Costa Rica.

Tamarindo ShoppingTamarindo is a quiet fishing village in the northern area of the Guanacaste Province in Costa Rica.

On another day, we hired a driver to take us to Arenal, the region with the largest active volcano (of five) in the country. It was a four-hour drive one way, but it didn’t seem anywhere near that long. The countryside was gorgeous and the time flew by. As we approached the volcano, we watched the sky gradually fill with clouds.

Lake Near ArenalThe Arenal Volcano is an active volcano in northwest Costa Rica, approximately 90 km northwest of the capital, San Jose. It is the dominant site when traveling to Arenal Volcano National Park, a popular tourist destination in Costa Rica. Travelers to the area find easy access to hiking trails, rain forests, a cloud forest, waterfalls, hanging bridges, hot springs, zip lines, caves, white water rafting, wild life and more.

Yes, Arenal is in the midst of a rain forest and relatively close to a cloud forest. We arrived to find that the clouds completely hid the volcano. Our first planned activity was a hike in the rain forest. Surprise, surprise! The rain started just as we began our hike! We realized that this is a fairly common occurrence in Arenal, even in the "dry season". It also does not hinder activities. We proceeded with our planned hike and even walked across six hanging suspension bridges in the midst of the rain. We left wet, but happy!

Entrance to the Suspension Bridge

Waterfall in the Rain ForestThe Arenal Volcano is an active volcano in northwest Costa Rica, approximately 90 km northwest of the capital, San Jose. It is the dominant site when traveling to Arenal Volcano National Park, a popular tourist destination in Costa Rica. Travelers to the area find easy access to hiking trails, rain forests, a cloud forest, waterfalls, hanging bridges, hot springs, zip lines, caves, white water rafting, wild life and more.

Arenal Area

We made a stop for lunch after the hike. We told our driver we wanted to experience local cuisine - nothing fancy, nothing touristy. He found the perfect little outdoor cafe. We even had some wildlife join us!

Outdoor CafeiPhone photo

The Coati... that joined us at the restaurant

Coati... visits us at the restaurant

Birds... seen at the restaurant

ToucanThe Arenal Volcano is an active volcano in northwest Costa Rica, approximately 90 km northwest of the capital, San Jose. It is the dominant site when traveling to Arenal Volcano National Park, a popular tourist destination in Costa Rica. Travelers to the area find easy access to hiking trails, rain forests, a cloud forest, waterfalls, hanging bridges, hot springs, zip lines, caves, white water rafting, wild life and more.

Restaurant Cascajo

We had planned to try the zip lines after lunch, but the rain started again and only one of us had zip lined before. We asked ourselves, do we really want to zip line for the first time in the rain, 650 feet above ground? Being from St. Louis, it occurred to us that the Gateway Arch is close to that height. Yes, we "wimped out" and opted for the tram ride instead. The ride was gorgeous. We reached the top of the rain forest and enjoyed watching the zip liners disappear into the clouds. Maybe we'll zip line on our next trip to Costa Rica! 

Tram Rideon top of the rain forest

Tram Rideon top of the rain forest

Then, we had some luck. The rain stopped as we rode the tram back to the base. The clouds partially cleared and we had a glimpse of the volcano. When I returned home, I spoke with a couple of friends who had visited Arenal previously. They told me that the clouds never cleared during their visit to Arenal; they did not see the volcano. I suppose we were fortunate to see even a partial view. What a beautiful sight!

Arenal VolcanoThe Arenal Volcano is an active volcano in northwest Costa Rica, approximately 90 km northwest of the capital, San Jose. It is the dominant site when traveling to Arenal Volcano National Park, a popular tourist destination in Costa Rica. Travelers to the area find easy access to hiking trails, rain forests, a cloud forest, waterfalls, hanging bridges, hot springs, zip lines, caves, white water rafting, wild life and more.

Photo Time at Arenal

Before returning to the condo, we stopped at a German bakery. We learned that Costa Rica sees a fair number of German tourists.

German Bakery

(Click for more images from Arenal.)

Back in Guanacaste, we made one last outing, a sunset cruise. We learned that sunset cruises here are frequently grouped together with other activities that take up much of the day. We were only interested in seeing the sunset by boat. So, we inquired about customizing a 2-hour cruise for the four of us. The tour operator obliged and offered a "big boat" with more room to move around, or a "small boat". The price difference was relatively small, so we opted for the "big boat". We arrived at the agreed-upon meeting point, where the tour operator introduced us to Captain William, aka Tarzan! (He had the "Tarzan" hair!) Tarzan drove us a short distance to his boat. Guess which one was the "big boat"? 

The "Big" Boatiphone photo

Yes, it was the one in the middle. The theme music to "Gilligan's Island" popped into our minds, but we quickly learned that the boat was the perfect size for the four of us! We saw an incredible sunset! Tarzan was fun, polite, and an extremely capable captain! The sunset cruise turned out to be the highlight of our trip. 

Sunset Cruise... near Brasilito and Playa Conchal.

Sunset Cruise... near Brasilito and Playa Conchal.

Sunset Cruise Scene... near Brasilito and Playa Conchal.

Sunset Cruise... near Brasilito and Playa Conchal.

Sunset Cruise... near Brasilito and Playa Conchal.

Sunset Cruise... near Brasilito and Playa Conchal.

(Click for more images from Guanacaste.)

It was a fabulous week in Costa Rica. I highly recommend it as a vacation destination. Thanks to my friends for accompanying me on the trip and for sharing a few of their iPhone photos. Click for more of Costa Rica.

Coati Visits the Nativity SceneIphone photo Christmas Tree Christmas and Window Shopping Snow Man Amidst the Palms Christmas in Costa Rica... at the Westin Playa Conchal, Guanacaste Province, Costa Rica ​

1. “Art galleries are intimidating” -- Keep in mind that an art gallery is simply a store. You are welcome to come inside for a few minutes, or browse for as long as you like. It is not a museum. You don’t need to pay admission. The people working inside the art galleries do not generally own million dollar homes. They are more likely the artists, looking for like-minded individuals with a creative spirit.

2. "Don’t I have to dress up?" -- No, not at all. Remember, it’s a store.

3. "I was invited to a reception. What should I expect?" -- Come as you are. There is no dress code. Invite a friend. All are welcome to public receptions. The gallery will likely provide music and refreshments to entertain you. You don’t need to bring anything or pay admission. Stay for a few minutes (perhaps on your way to dinner or a movie)… or stay longer and have a glass of wine. Listen to some music, socialize with other guests, meet an artist and ask what went into his or her work... or just browse quietly. Enjoy the atmosphere.

Looking Up, Looking DownDigital composition of one photo looking up at the Arch and a second photo looking at the city from the top of the Arch

4. "But, won’t I be pressured into buying something?" -- Not in my experience. Then again, if you shop in other stores, you will probably find a few that pressure you into buying their products and others that won’t. I haven’t felt pressured to buy from any art gallery in St. Louis that I’ve visited. What I have found is that the artists that work the galleries love visitors! Personally, I always try to greet visitors and allow them to browse a bit on their own. If they seem in the mood to chat, I might try to start a conversation. Sometimes the conversation evolves into an art-related conversation, sometimes not.  Know that I’m not expecting anyone to make insightful observations about the meaning of a piece of art. I‘m really just trying to help visitors feel comfortable in the gallery.

5. "What if I actually want to buy art? Isn’t everything really expensive?" -- Some art is quite expensive, but not all art is. More and more galleries are trying to offer items for all budgets. Original paintings will likely be more expensive than a print or a photograph, as additional prints can be made. Many galleries offer unframed prints in a variety of sizes, allowing customers to do their own framing. Galleries may also offer jewelry and other functional and decorative art, in a wide variety of prices. Art galleries are full of local artists. Are you looking for gifts and trying to shop local? Then, art galleries are the first place you should be looking. When judging whether something is overpriced, keep in mind the amount of time that goes into the creation of a piece. Remember that the gallery is also a business. There are rental fees, commissions, lease payments, utility bills, repair bills, etc. If you’re still uncertain about whether a piece of art is worth the price, ask the artist... “what went into the creation of this piece?” Most artists are more than happy to tell you about their work. If the artist is not working on a particular day, take a business card or come back to a reception.

View From the Top...of Busch Stadium.

Personally, I believe a gallery is a great place to visit if you like art of any type, or simply want to be inspired. I’ve seen all types of visitors come into our gallery... art dealers, local businessmen and women, casual passersby, and even people waiting for take-out from the nearby pizza and Chinese restaurants. My most memorable visitor came in a couple of months ago on a beautiful, sunny Autumn afternoon. He walked in wearing a uniform typically worn by automobile mechanics. He even had the name patch on his shirt. The gentleman began browsing and was quite friendly. As we chatted, I learned that he works in a “tire shop” somewhere on the north side of St. Louis. When he is in our neighborhood (once every 3 or 4 months or so), he tries to stop in to browse. He told me that he finds galleries relaxing and a good way to unwind.  He asked which art work was mine. As soon as he saw the St. Louis photography, the conversation flowed easily. I really enjoyed that conversation and it proved to me that galleries can certainly be enjoyable… at least to those who don’t let the intimidation factor get in the way.

I'll be at the Clayton Fine Art Gallery, at least through the end of 2015. Come visit me, if you have the chance!

The Compton Hill Water Tower... as viewed from the Reservoir Park.

What is the Water Tower? It is a French Romanesque-style tower that was built toward the end of the 19th century. At that time, the growing city’s demand for water was outgrowing its water delivery system. To solve that problem, the tower was built. It was made of rusticated limestone, buff brick and terra cotta. Decorative features included a griffin and vine-like scrolls on the base. Inside, 198 iron steps spiraled around a standpipe, ending in an observation deck where visitors enjoyed a 360-degree view of the city. Functionally, the Water Tower was retired in 1929, but by that time, thousands of people were visiting the tower to climb the stairs and enjoy the beautifully landscaped park in which it was enclosed. Today, the Water Tower remains a part of the city's architectural heritage and opens to the public twice each month, April through November. It opens on the first Saturday afternoon of each month and on the evening of the full moon. (Source: The Water Tower Park & Preservation Society)

I knew that the Water Tower would be open this past Wednesday for the full moon. When I heard that a blood moon was expected, I decided to re-visit the tower. Unfortunately, I awoke that day to news that the blood moon had appeared in the early morning hours. I thought I had missed the red-orange moon, but decided to visit the tower anyway. Blood moon or not, a visit to the tower is always enjoyable.

SunsetLooking Eastward from the Compton Hill Water Tower, October 2014

For me, the most enjoyable part of the visit is being on the observation deck about 10 minutes prior to a moonrise. Whether one visits alone or with friends, a camaraderie emerges among visitors, anticipating the arrival of the moon. This past Wednesday, the talk was about the Blood Moon. The conversation centered around the morning's news; the Blood Moon had appeared in the early morning hours. We had missed it. Visitors were a bit disappointed, but all looked forward to seeing a full moon, nevertheless. We were enjoying the pleasant evening view, with a cool breeze blowing in through the windows. Everyone was glancing at their watches, keenly looking toward the east. I suspect that all hoped to be the first to catch a glimpse of the moon. "Does anyone know where the moon will appear?", one asked. "Somewhere just south of the Arch", several guessed. Finally, at 6:49pm... "There it is, there it is!", one visitor called out. All glanced toward the Arch and saw a sliver of the moon. Within seconds, that sliver grew in size. "Oohs" and "ahhhs" emerged from the Water Tower's visitors, as we realized that the moon still had that reddish-orange glow! What a privilege it was to be a part of the group that witnessed the Blood Moon rising from the Compton Hill Water Tower! 

Blood Moon RisingLook closely... it is peeking out, just south of the Arch. Blood Moon Rising... and it is more visible. Blood Moon Rising... imagine the "oohs" and "ahhhs" from the Observation Deck! Blood Moon Rising... and the sky darkens as the moon rises higher.

It was clear that rain was due in St. Louis later that evening. The clouds had begun rolling in, in abundance, just above the top of the Arch. I stayed until that Blood Moon disappeared behind the clouds. When I arrived home, I looked up once more and happened to see the moon again, in a gap that appeared between the clouds. To my amazement, I realized that the moon was, once again, white. At that moment, I felt very fortunate to have witnessed a Blood Moon... and what a spectacular vantage point from which to have viewed it!

Inside the Tower... walking 198 steps to the top. (No elevator!) Walking the steps... and a view of the standpipe in the middle of the tower. Looking Out While Walking UpPlatforms, with photos along the wall, provide a break from the long walk up. Windows, with views outside, remind visitors why they are climbing the 198 stairs One Last Sunset View

The Covered Bridge on Sugar CreekPioneer Park, Sangamon County, Illinois Burfordville Covered BridgeOverlooking the mill stream

Why cover a bridge in the first place? We learned the answer to that question at our first stop: the Sandy Creek Covered Bridge, in Jefferson County, MO. Back in the mid-19th century, a wooden bridge had a life expectancy of merely ten years. A cover over a bridge protected it from the elements and increased its longevity. As one contemporary expressed it, "Bridges were covered for the same reasons women wore petticoats... to protect their underpinnings!"

The Sandy Creek bridge was originally built in 1872 by John H. Morse. Six covered bridges, including the Sandy Creek bridge, were intended to provide passage from the county seat of Jefferson county (Hillsboro) to St. Louis. This bridge is the only one of those original six bridges that remain today. It is also one of only four covered bridges that remain in the state of Missouri.

The Sandy Creek Covered BridgeJefferson County, Missouri

The Sandy Creek Covered BridgeView from a picnic area

Three of those Missouri bridges, the Sandy Creek, Burfordville, and Locust Creek bridges, were built using a Howe-truss design. There are variations on the truss design, a common design for bridges built between the 1870s and the 1930s. The Howe truss is relatively rare and consists of vertical and diagonal elements that form a triangle and slope upward toward the center. 

The Sandy Creek Bridge was destroyed by a flood in the Spring of 1886, then repaired later that same year. In 1967, the Missouri Park System took possession of the remaining covered bridges in the state of Missouri. Shortly thereafter, the Sandy Creek bridge was listed on a National Register of Historic Places. It underwent a complete restoration in 1984 due to flood damage. Today it is used merely as a pedestrian bridge. The bridge is located in a quiet and peaceful park in Hillsboro, Missouri, a little over a half hour drive from St. Louis. 

After leaving Sandy Creek, we decided to cross the Mississippi River into Illinois, to explore yet another covered bridge. We found the Mary's River Covered Bridge (IL-150, between Chester and Bremen in Randolph County) in a quaint little park surrounded by farmland. What a beautiful setting!

The Mary's River Covered Bridge... between Chester and Bremen, IL

The Covered BridgeThe Mary's River Covered Bridge, Randolph County, IL

We wondered about the significance of the location and learned that Chester, Illinois was an important trading post in the mid-19th century. A toll road was built between Chester and Bremen (6 miles north of Chester) to facilitate trade traffic. The Mary's River crossed this road, so a covered bridge was built to allow safe passage. This covered bridge was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1974. The design of the bridge is Burr Arch, also known as a Burr Truss or Burr Arch Truss design. The principle behind the design is that the arch is capable of bearing the entire load, while the truss keeps the bridge rigid.

Beneath the BridgeMary's River Burr Arch or Burr Truss design

My friend and I commented on how so many of these covered bridges have been painted red. Again, I researched and found a couple of theories. One historian suggested that the color red made the bridges resemble barns, which was calming for horses who might be skittish when encountering an enclosure with the sound of flowing water beneath. Another suggested that dirt and rust were combined for a resourceful paint base. 

Regardless, we had time for one more stop before heading back to St. Louis. We had driven through Chester, IL, and briefly considered returning. A series of life-size statues had caught our attention. We stopped to "google" the statues and learned that Chester, IL is the home of Popeye, the Sailor Man! Apparently, the creator of Popeye was a native of Chester, Illinois and based many of her characters on former residents of the town. As a result, the town pays tribute to Popeye and the comic strip's creator with the statues. 

As intriguing as we found that story, we decided to forego photos. We had noticed signs pointing to another area attraction - a fort! With direction from our GPS, we located Fort de Chartres at 1350 Illinois Route 155, in Prairie du Rocher, Illinois. What a delightful find on a beautiful summer day!

Fort de Chartres... walking toward the entrance

In researching background on the fort, I found that France had claimed the Illinois countryside, as early as 1673, when Louis Joliet and Jacques Marquette began exploring the Mississippi River. In 1718, a wooden fort was constructed 18 miles north of the village of Kaskaskia, in attempting to establish a civil government in the region. The wooden stockage was surrounded by a dry moat, but soon deteriorated due to frequent flooding. In 1725, work began on a larger fort, farther inland. By 1747, the second fort suffered from considerable disrepair and was moved back to Kaskaskia.

Pathway to the FortFort de Chartres, a state historic site in southern Illinois

The French began discussing a stone fort in the 1730s, because of profitable lead deposits found on the west bank of the Mississippi near St. Genevieve. They also found rich bottomlands for crops. Construction began on the stone fort in the 1750s. The fort became operational in 1754 and was completed in 1760. In 1763, Britain took control with the Treaty of Paris that ended the Seven Years War. The British temporarily renamed the site, Fort Cavendish, but the Mississippi continued to erode the site and they abandoned it in 1771. Then, in 1913, the Illinois legislature authorized the purchase of the site. Partial reconstruction ensued in the 1920s and 1930s. Today, a partially re-built 18th century fort exists on the site. 

Inside the Fort Walls

The Garden Within the Walls

A Cannon's Perspective

Anyone familiar with the Mississippi River can easily imagine the challenges the site faced from the river. We passed through two flood walls before reaching the fort, which was situated just inside a third flood wall. We never actually saw the river at this location, but saw a map that placed the river beyond the third flood wall. Nonetheless, we speculated what life must have been like living within the fort walls and looking out on the vast countryside with the bluffs in the distance. The view was spectacular!

View from the Guard Tower

As the sun began casting shadows along the farmland and vistas outside the fort walls, we knew it was time to head back to St. Louis. The drive home lasted about an hour. What a beautiful day to explore the midwestern countryside just south and east of St. Louis!

To view more photographs of covered bridges that I've visited, click: Covered Bridges. 

To view more photographs of Fort de Chartres, click: Fort de Chartres Collection. 

Gravel Road

Farmland and Bluffs in the Distance

Resources:

Wikipedia; Truss Bridge http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truss_bridge; 

Wikepedia; Burr Truss http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burr_Truss

Missouri State Parks http://mostateparks.com/page/54999/general-information

Mary's River Covered Bridge http://www.greatriverroad.com/stegen/randattract/covered.htm

From surreys to SUVs: Historic Langley Covered Bridge still accommodates vehicles one at a time ://www.mlive.com/news/kalamazoo/index.ssf/2011/09/from_surreys_to_suvs_historic.html

Why Covered Bridges Were Painted Red http://americanathebeautiful.org/why-covered-bridges-were-painted-red/

Fort de Chartres State Historic Site http://www.greatriverroad.com/stegen/randattract/chartres.htm

Why would I want to photograph 100 strangers? If you've been following my work, you know that I've been re-exploring my native St. Louis and photographing its neighborhoods in a project called #MyCitySTL. I hope to give viewers a "feel" for each neighborhood. With a few exceptions, I've focused on buildings, attractions and every day scenes, but I've realized that what truly gives a neighborhood its character is its people. So, on recent outings, I've tried to incorporate more people into my collections. It takes some courage though. Some days I still feel too introverted to approach strangers. I recently stumbled upon a Digital Photography School article. It was just the incentive I needed to take on that "stranger challenge" on a regular basis. I'm beginning my 100 Strangers Project with a few photos that I've collected around St. Louis. I plan to follow DPS’ suggestions as I continue both projects, and hope to become more comfortable photographing strangers.

#18: Introducing the New PuppyDogs are always a great "icebreaker", and this puppy was happy to meet a stranger!

To begin, DPS recommends actually speaking with strangers. You don't have to hide behind a tree with a long lens! In fact, for this particular project, DPS recommends asking permission for all photos of people. Be honest and direct. Tell the stranger what your project is about and why you would like to take their picture. Tell them what caught your eye and why you think their photograph will be appealing. They will likely be flattered and want to help you out. They may even ask for posing suggestions.

How should a street photograph be posed? DPS recommends making the same suggestions you would make for any sort of outdoor photography. You just have to figure it out more quickly. Perhaps just say, “Ok, let’s get a few straight-faced shots—no smile.” And then after a few frames, warm them up with a joke or two, or just ask them to smile. You might want to show them exactly how you want them to pose, or you might want to tell them “however your body feels comfortable”. The gentleman that follows was pleased to have his photo taken, but asked for some direction. I suggested that he place his hand on the railing and his smile followed naturally.

#4: Out for a Walk

Others need no instruction. I spotted the young man below and asked if I could take his picture. Of course, I mentioned how great his tattoos would look in a photo. He nodded in approval and immediately struck a confident pose, looking off into the distance.

#15: A Confident Pose

It is easy to catch people in a good mood at street festivals. They are often happy to have their photo taken. 

#14: Festive Drinks

The gentleman below was in such a good mood that he asked me to take his picture!

#9: Take my Picture!

If the person seems interested, really take the time to talk to that person. I met the stranger below while taking a picture of the building across the street. He started the conversation and was quite interesting. I'm glad I took the time to listen, as it turns out that our St. Louis roots began in the same neighborhood. We chatted for about 20 minutes. Then, it occurred to me, why not ask for a photo? He was happy to oblige. I now have more than a photo. I have his story and I smile each time I see his photo.

#6: Strolling Around the Old Lemp BreweryTake the time to really talk to people. You may just find they have some interesting stories to tell, as this gentleman did.

It can be helpful to look for an appealing background for your photos. Scope out your background and consider the lighting. Sit and wait for a subject that catches your eye. Or, take the approach that photographers like Brandon Stanton, the Humans of New York photographer, prefer. Photograph your subjects exactly where you find them. Either way, be polite, but keep an air of confidence about you as you approach a stranger. Don’t act as if you are doing something wrong. Remember, that as a photographer, you are trying to capture appealing qualities about your subjects. Approach strangers with that goal in mind. So far, I've been taking Stanton's approach. The women below were perfect just where they sat and really gave a feel for their neighborhoods.

#3: Relaxing Before Church

#13: Stylin' It!

To practice approaching strangers, DPS recommends doing so without a camera for a few days. Set a goal for yourself to make small talk at the grocery store or at the coffee shop. Next, ease into the photography by taking pictures of a street performer. If you don't live in a city where street performers are common, consider attending a holiday festival and take pictures of festival performers. Take a friend along for encouragement and support, even if that friend isn’t a photographer. Use a smaller lens, as it will be less intimidating to the stranger. Speak confidently and take your time. Once you ask for permission, it is your responsibility to do a good job! Be sure you thank your subjects. Offer to email them your best picture and share the photos on a blog or social media. Once you make a project public, you will be more likely to keep the project going! I hope to keep my project going by posting photos on Twitter and/or Facebook. So, follow me on Twitter and/or "like" my Facebook page to follow along!

#17: Happy Dogs!

#12: Mother and Daughter

\ #7: Gardening at the DeMenil Mansion

Note: I originally called the #MyCitySTL photo project, "Around Town STL". I subsequently changed the name of the project in an attempt to personalize the project, and have edited this blog to reflect the name change.

Sculpture Garden in Webster Groves

Meredith describes "wide angle" by comparing it to the field of view of the human eye. Although the human eye is capable of seeing a 120-140 degree field of view with peripheral vision, it's "normal" field of view without peripheral vision is 60 degrees. A wide angle lens is defined as any lens that than can expand that "normal" field of view beyond 60 degrees. For a camera with a full-frame sensor, a focal length of less than 35mm will accomplish that. For a camera with a cropped-frame or smaller sensor, a focal length of less than 20mm is needed. I used a full-frame camera for this project, so all of my wide angle images have a focal length of less than 35mm.

Antique ShoppingA confined space is the perfect setting for a wide angle lens.

Wide angle lenses give a unique perspective to a photograph, but a common misperception is that they distort perspective. Meredith explains by discussing two photos of the same image, taken from the same spot. One photo uses a wider focal length and the other a shorter focal length. The shorter focal length results in less of the "scene" in the picture, but when comparing the subject matter common to both photos, the perspective and proportions remain the same. I experimented with this concept with a visit to Busch stadium. 

70mm focal length... close-up, taken with my feet at the base of the statue.

17mm focal length... close-up, taken with my feet at the base of the statue.

The above photos were taken from the same spot (with my toes touching the base of the statue), hand held (no tripod). The first photo used a lens with a wide 17mm focal length and the second used a shorter 70mm focal length.

To compare the perspective and proportion, I then cropped the wide 17mm photo to show only the subject matter contained in the 70mm photo. The results follow:

17mm, cropped to the size of the 70mm photo... close-up, taken with my feet at the base of the statue.

70mm, uncropped... close-up, taken with my feet at the base of the statue.

Although the lighting and background perspective differs, distortion in the foreground statue is not significant. 

I decided to make one more comparison before leaving Busch Stadium. I wanted to compare the original 17mm image to a 70mm image, with the full statue in view. To do so, I needed to step back from the statue, approximately 6-7 feet. The results follow.

70mm focal lengthI backed away from the statue, about 6-7 feet, prior to taking this photo. 17mm focal length... close-up, taken with my feet at the base of the statue.

The wider angle clearly captures more of the background. It also makes objects closer to the lens look larger than they actually are. I was closest to Brock's arm and head, so they appear larger in the wide angle photo than in the normal 70mm photo. Because I was able to stand so close to the statue, the wider angle also shows greater detail in the arm and head. Conversely, objects that are further from the lens (like the Arch) tend to look much further away than they actually are. The wide angle clearly gave the photograph a unique perspective. 

Couldn't one call this "unique perspective" a distortion? Meredith points out that lenses do not distort perspective, but I wanted a better understanding of the concept. I found an interesting discussion on the topic in PhotographyLife. Photography Life explains that there are two types of distortion: perspective and optical. Perspective distortion has nothing to do with the lens; it is not an error. It is a normal occurrence that can be seen with the human eye. When one takes a small object, such as a cell phone, and places it very close to the human eye, it looks much larger in perspective than the television sitting in the distance. This same "perspective distortion" is what happened with the wide angle lens in the above photo of the Lou Brock statue. It is a normal perspective that can be seen with the human eye. The second type of distortion is an optical distortion. An optical distortion curves straight lines inward or outward and is the result of an optical flaw in the design of a lens. It is not unusual to find at least a bit of optical distortion in a photo, as a "perfect" lens is rare. Photographers often use post-processing software to eliminate unwanted optical distortion. 

When I initially scanned through the book, I admit, I skimmed right over this project. I remember taking pictures of clouds during my first plane flight, way back when. That was the problem. It simply sounded like something that a first-time flyer does. Then, I remembered that I had two upcoming plane trips planned in one month, an unusual occurrence for an infrequent flyer like me. So, I decided to read what Gerard had to say. 

First, I looked at Gerard's aerial photographs. He captured some intriguing patterns and structures... and my interest! This project was not about snapping pictures of a few clouds. This was about using one's observational skills to find unique patterns, features and/or structures and being ready to compose and snap in a fleeting moment. Gerard pointed out that many aerial views take on an abstract feel. I had not done much abstract photography prior to this project. Perhaps the project would be challenging after all.

One of my favorite aerial photos...snow-capped mountains... somewhere in the northwest

Gerard provided a few tips as to the process:

1. Bring a camera with a lens that captures both wide and zoomed views.

2. Be open to many forms of beauty, whether they be "cloudscapes, landscapes, natural features, or man-made structures".

3. If you have a choice in seats, pay attention to the physical parameters of the plane. Of course, you will need a window seat, unobstructed by a wing. Consider the direction that you will be flying and the location of the sun in your window's view. It can also be handy to have an alcohol wipe to clean dirt or smudges off the window. 

4. With respect to the camera, keep in mind that the objects one sees outside of a plane's window are moving much faster than they appear. The best results will come from setting the camera to shutter priority, or for a point and shoot camera, sports mode.

5. When loading the photos onto your computer, you may see low contrast and/or bluish images, due to the airplane window and/or atmospheric conditions. Images will likely require post-processing to bring the color and contrast back to what you remember seeing. 

Gerard preferred processing the images as he remembered seeing them from the airplane window. He suggested that other photographers might prefer a wilder, more processed look with this type of photo. I decided to try a bit of both. Perhaps I would learn some new Photoshop skills in the process.

I was fortunate enough to see a sunrise on my first flight, but I was seated behind an engine. This was not fortunate, according to Gerard. The air turbulence caused by an engine can have a detrimental effect on photographs. I didn't find it to be a problem in my flight, however. In fact, I couldn't resist a few images of the sunrise with the wing and engine in the photos. I felt it documented the beginning of my project. 

Flying with the Sunrise  

Gerard also pointed out that a partially covered landscape can make for some spectacular images. The country was largely snow-covered during both of my trips. I was in luck. My first trip took me over a couple of cities. I looked for interesting patterns and shapes in the roads and buildings.

Aerial View of the CityMany aerial city views take on the look of computer memory board.

Geometric Patterns from the Sky

Lines from the Sky

Residential Neighborhood... lit by the early morning sun.

I then decided to try a bit of that "wilder" post-processing that Gerard mentioned. I took the images into Photoshop and experimented with manipulations and filters to create images that were even more abstract. Several of the images turned red when I converted them into color negatives. I liked the tapestry feel that this type of processing created:

City Tapestry

I also liked the effect of the oil painting filter, as seen in the image below. I experimented quite a bit with the size of the brush, the stylization and the cleanliness. I found this filter to be particularly effective in salvaging grainy photos. (Note that I also used the oil painting filter on the image above, prior to turning the image into a color negative.)

Geometric Patterns From the SkyOil Painting Effect

Black and white images are always popular. So, I combined that look with posterization to create the image below.

Lines from the Sky...abstract, in black and white

Posterization is definitely the way to go when you want a "wild" look. Keep it in color for an extreme look.

The Neighborhood... abstract, posterization

I liked the straight lines and colors of a train yard.

Line Patterns

Then, I wondered how it might look if I liquified and swirled those lines, to create an extreme abstract.

Line Pattern Interrupted

On the second leg of the trip, I was seated almost directly over a wing. I had far fewer photographic opportunities, but I managed to snap a few images.

Wing View

Directing the Abstract

I decided to try a new Photoshop manipulation with these less abstract images. I thought the images might look interesting as pencil sketches, so I googled the process and found some instructions. I didn't find the results to be convincing pencil sketches, but I did find the results to be interesting:

Wing View... pencil sketch manipulation in Photshop

Directing the Abstract...abstract, in black and white

On my second plane trip this past month, I flew over snow-covered mountains and some spectacular landscapes.

Snow Capped Mountains

Contained Dots and Dashes

Mountainous Patterns

Again, I enjoyed playing with Photoshop.

MountainsInverting the colors created a unique contrast in black, white and brown.

Aerial Drawingpencil effect

Snow Capped Mountains 2... in red

Surrounding the CirclesThe original photo was quite grainy. An oil painting effect salvaged the photo, creating a soft and calming look.

Finally, I was fortunate enough to end my second trip (and this project) with an aerial sunset.

To view the full collection of photos from this project, click PROJECT: AERIAL TURNED ABSTRACT in my online photo galleries. I've also grouped images into collections, according to how I processed them. To view individual collections, click on the links below:

ORIGINALS (pre-Photoshop manipulations; images were imported and processed via Lightroom 5)

Photoshop CS6 Manipulations:

THE BLUES COLLECTION

THE PURPLES COLLECTION

THE REDS COLLECTION

THE BROWNS COLLECTION

BLACK & WHITE COLLECTION

PIXEL ART COLLECTION

OIL PAINTING COLLECTION